Murshidabad, Pt. 2, Series: Bengal before 'Calcutta'

'Old places have souls.' - Sarah Anderson

A Deep Dive into 'Murshidabad's origin:

Joseph Tiefenthaler (1710-85) wrote Murshidabad was founded during Akbar's reign but, there is no mention of it in Ain-E-Akbari. In Akbarnama however, it says the name of the brother of Bengal's governor was Muksus Khan. Some historians credit him as the founder of Muksunabad (Maksudabad), the earlier name for Murshidabad. Back in the late 16th century, a merchant from Isfahan (in Iran) named Haji Safi, brought a

poor Brahmin's son from the Deccan region of India. He raised him as Mohamed (Mirza) Hadi. In his youth, Hadi first became an assistant in the revenue department under the Dewan of Berar (now, Vidarbha), and then was appointed by Mughal emperor Aurangzeb as the Dewan of Hyderabad. In 1701, the Emperor appointed him Dewan of Bengal and titled him as Kartalab Khan, posting him to Dhaka. Later, Kartalab Khan had a fall out with Prince Azim-ush-Shan, the grandson of Aurangzeb and relocated his office from Dhaka to Maksudabad. Aurangzeb, pleased with the collection of taxes, conferred upon him the title of Murshid Quli Khan, in Arabic 'Quli' means 'total' and 'Murshid' means a teacher of more generally an 'expert'; Aurangzeb saw him as an totally expert tax collector. It is then (1703-04), Murshid changed the name of the city to Murshidabad. When Aurangzeb died in 1707, Emperor Bahadur Shah I (father of Azim-ush-Shan) transferred Murshid Quli to the Deccan but, brought him back as deputy Subahdar in 1710. In 1717, he was made the Nawab Nazim of Murshidabad by Farrukhsiyar (son of Azim-ush-Shan). He increased revenue generation further and was then appointed as the Subahdar of Bengal, Bihar and Orissa. Growing into confidence, he assumed an attitude of independence, stopped sending any remittances to Delhi and appointed his daughter's daughter, Nafisa Begum's husband, Syed Rezi Khan as his own Dewan and the Muslim empire of Bengal originated from then onward.

The TRIP

[Recap] For details refer here.

[24th December 2021, Friday]

Khushbagh, Motijheel

[25th December 2021, Saturday, Pre-Lunch]

Kathgola, Motijheel, The premises of Jagat Seths, Nashipur Rajbari & Akhara, Namak Haram Deorhi, Jafarganj Cemetery, Wasif Manzil.

[25th December 2021, Saturday, Post-Lunch]

A heart of an old capital

• Name - Erstwhile Nizamat Fort Or, Qila Nizamat Or, Hazarduari Complex

• Location - Lalbagh, Murshidabad, West Bengal.

- How we reached? - E-Rickshaw (locally called Toto) from Chuapur, Berhampur.

- Entry? - 9 AM - 5 PM , Rs 25/- (Dec'21)

- Guide? - Usually should be there, we couldn't find any.

Only thing left of it is the gates to Hazarduari Palace, now mostly surrounded by illegal constructions (local shops), making it impossible to photograph. This is how it looked in our glorious past:-

It originally contained the Palace, Imambara, Medina, residential quarters, three mosques, Bungalows, other buildings. The fort had many gates, now public can enter only from the southern gates rest are closed off.

- Contents:

Hazarduari Palace - It is the most famous place in Murshidabad. Founded in 1829, as per order of then Governor General of British India William Cavedis under the watchful eyes of then Nawab Nazim of Murshidabad Humayun Jah. The main architect for this palace was

Col. Duncan Mc Leod of the Bengal Corps of Engineers. It took 8 years (1829-37) for the construction to complete and was initially known as “Bara Kothi”. The palace has 1000 doors in total (100 false doors). The palace has an Indo-Italian styled architecture. It is yellow in color. It has a massive number of giant staircase (probably the biggest in India) at the main entrance with two stone lion statues in sitting posture on the either side of the entrance. This palace is 424 ft. long, 200 ft. broad and 80ft, high. The first floor can be entered via a external flight of stairs. Now it acts as a museum and the stairs as its exit.

N:B: Mir Jafar > Mubarak Ali Khan > Babar Ali Khan > Zain-ud-Din Ali Khan > Sayyid Ahmad Ali Khan > Mubarak Ali Khan II = Humayun Jah

The museum hosts antiques, arms, weapons and paintings of various European artists, old costumes and jewelry, palanquins, ivory howdahs and palanquins, magnificent chandeliers, rare books, old maps and manuscripts. The most beautiful artifact I saw is the grand chandelier with 96 lamps within the Durbar Hall. The Durbar or, Throne Room is the most beautiful room in this palace. It is a round room with 50 ft. diameter, surmounted by a dome 63 ft. high. From its center hangs three massive chains holding the superb chandelier. Alas photography was prohibited inside. So I decided to try drawing it,-

Another beautiful piece is a silver throne with a grand umbrella inside the same Hall. Originally the ground floor of this palace had the Toshakhana (repository of jewels), Armory, record room and various other offices; the first floor had throne room, drawing room, banqueting hall, billiard room, chambers, sitting rooms and the boudoir; the second or, topmost floor had the Library, the Ball room, bed rooms etc.

Madina - On north of the Palace lies the central dome, the only remnant of Siraj-ud-Duala's famous Imambara, which was burnt down by fire (23 Dec 1846), during a display of fireworks. The area enclosed by the foundation walls was dug up five feet and six inches deep and was filled up with soil brought Mecca, Arab (this may be heresy). According to Maj. J. H. Tull Walsh, Siraj brought bricks and mortar with his own hands and laid the foundation. This mosque has a single dome, four minarets adorning around. The outside is completely whitewashed. This Madina is kept open only during the Muharram festival.

Nizamat Imambara - Parallel to the north façade of the Palace, stands the Nizamat Imambara, built in 1847 by Nawab Nazim Mansoor Ali Khan at a cost of more than 6 lacs, a

huge white structure. Original one was built by Siraj-ud-Duala, which was destroyed by fire. The earlier Imambara was much closer to the Hazarduari Museum. Current one is 680 ft. long, with varying breadths. Its construction happened under the supervision and direction of Sadeq Ali Khan, who was not a professional engineer. The workmen received food in addition to their wages, so that they could work day and night without interruptions. It took only 11 months. Entry to this is only allowed to public during the 10 holy days of Muhurram. Hence, for us the door was closed. This grand Imambara is the largest one in Bengal as well as India. I read it houses another mosque at its centre just beside a Naha bat Khana. It is rectangular in shape, divided into three quadrangles. The central quadrangle houses a Medina, the symbolic representation of burial place of Prophet Muhammad. The white structure surmounted by a dome is adorned with several pillars and arches standing on a raised floor decorated with ornamental China tiles. In the book “A History of Murshidabad District” by Major J. H. Tull Walsh. He mentions while describing the Imambara “To the west, on the bank of the river, there was a Hindu temple. This was razed to the ground, and another was built in place of it at Ichaganj. On the site of this temple, on the bank of the river, a two-storied Musjid was erected. This Musjid comands a very beautiful view…”.

Bacchawali Tope - Bacchawali Tope - Situated on the east of the Old Madina. It is a cannon supported by two 5 ft. high pedestals, consisting two pieces of different diameters. The smaller portion is the 'chamber' (~3 ft.). This was made between the 12-14th centuries, probably by the Muslim rulers of Gour. It is said to be rested originally on the sand banks adjoining Ichhaganj (near Murshidabad, though I couldn't find this place). It was brought here by Sadeq Ali Khan (architect of the Nizamat Imambara). It is said that the cannon was once fired in Murshidabad and the sound produced caused many cases of abortion (or, some say birth) for pregnant women for miles. Hence, its got its name.

Clock Tower - It replicates the Big Ben of London, the dials could be seen from a long distance. Once, there was a Bell at the top. But the clock tower is presently locked down. The clock doesn’t work anymore unlike Big Ben. The tower was designed by Sagor Mistri, assistant to Duncan Mc Leod.

Zurud Masjid - A yellow colored masjid opp. to the west gate of Hazarduari Palace. It is said that its construction was ordered by Siraj in one night.

Chawk Masjid - A white Masjid founded by Munni Begum (wife of Mir Jafar) in 1767. the construction was administered by Shaikh Khalilallah. E.I.C. was quite fond of Munni Begum. She fell into the category of Gaddinashin Begum, the begums who were provided with separate allowances (for her 12K per month). Earlier in this place Nawab Murshid Quli Khan had built the "Chahel Sutan", which was the city's forty pillared audience hall. The five domed mosque has some beautiful stucco floral design. It has a grand entrance and two small towers. A market was and is still this date located in front of the mosque. Since Chawk means markets, the mosque derived its name from that.

A gate or, many?

• Name - Tripolia Gate

• Location - Lalbagh, Murshidabad, West Bengal.

- How we reached? - E-Rickshaw (locally called Toto) from Chuapur, Berhampur.

Tripolia gate translates to three gates. From many books on Murshidabad’s History like “Musnud of Murshidabad” or Bengal Gazettes during that time, it is evident that there used to be three gates which served as various entrance gates to the Nizamat Kila. One was at the entrance of two roads which meets in front of the Chowk gate. The other was in front of an “Ambhakhana” to store mangoes, the third one Chowk Gate is presently known as the Tripolia Gate.

- Details - This is a beautiful three arched gateway with a Naubat Khana on the top. The Tripolia Gate was one of the entrances to the Nizamat Kila (fort) area of Murshidabad. It is said the Nawabs used to enter the Kila area with their horses & elephants through the Tripolia Gate.

The Tripolia Gate was built by Nawab Shuja Khan, the successor of Nawab Murshid Quli Khan.

An erstwhile center of Islamic learning

• Name - Katra Masjid

• Location - north-eastern side of Murshidabad, West Bengal.

- Completed On - 1724

- How we reached? - E-Rickshaw (locally called Toto) from Lalbagh, Murshidabad.

- Entry? - Free (Dec'21)

- Guide? - Rs 25/- (Dec'21)

The Katra Masjid is a former caravanserai. It means a a roadside inn where travelers (caravanners) could rest and recover from the day's journey. Most probably it is the oldest standing structure in Murshidabad. Built by Nawab Murshid Quli Khan during 1723-1724, Katra Mosque has one tower (Minaret) on either side now. Murshid Quli entrusted the responsibility for constructing the mosque to his trusted follower (and architect) Murad Farash Khan. Originally there were 4 towers (and 5 domes, 2 remains) in 4 corners, 2 towers got destroyed in the earthquake of 1897. These minarets were used to keep weapons. I also read about a flight of stairs to reach the top of the towers. But the gates were closed. In 1780, William Hodges (traveler) wrote, 700 Quran readers lived there in the mosque. He describes it as “a grand seminary of Musalman learning, adorned by a mosque which rises high above all the surrounding buildings” in his book 'Select Views of India'. The place is maintained by ASI with the signature garden at the front. I also saw a Shiv Temple in the mosque complex, our guide didn't know when and why it was made. 

- Details - The space between two towers now hosts small cells, they are 2-stories and surrounds the mosque. Our guide told, these cells used to act as home to scholars who came here for Islamic learning. A total of 700 cells are there. The mosque has 5 doors and 3 Mihrabs (semicircular niche) on the walls facing the doors (so, total 5*3=15 Mihrabs). Such Mihrabs indicate 'qibla', the direction of Kabba in Mecca.

Muslims pray looking at this direction. Atop the central Mihrab is an Arabic inscription (“La-l-la-ha illallah… Muhammad ur-Rasool-Allah” - “There is no god except Allah and Muhammad is his prophet”).

The outer walls has a basalt slab with Persian inscription (“Muhammad, the Arabian, the glory of both worlds. Dust be on the head of him who is not the dust of his portal.” from “The Musnud of Murshidabad”). In front of the mosque is the huge praying area to accommodate 2000 Namaz readers, with floor divided into squares (~2000). The hooks & rings on the mosque wall were used for tying huge clothes so that they could serve as a canopy over the Namaz readers during the sun and heat (Our guide told).

The mosque also has the tomb of Nawab Murshid Quli Khan. Visitors now enter the mosque through the back. The original entrance (the eastern side) has a flight of 14 stairs, under which lies the tomb. The guide told, Nawab felt remorse at the end of his days felt remorse for his bad deeds and asked to be buried under the stairs to atone for his sins. He felt the dust from the feet of noblemen would fall on his grave to lessen his burden.

A 'Great Gun'

• Name - Jahankosha Cannon

• Location - 0.25 mile south east of Katra Mosque, Murshidabad, West Bengal.

- How we reached? - E-Rickshaw (locally called Toto) from Lalbagh, Murshidabad.

- Entry? - Free (Dec'21)

According wiki, Jahankosha means 'Destroyer of the World'. It is the name of a cannon lying near the Katra mosque, placed atop a pedestal in a area called Topekhana (Armory). Topekhana was the Nawab's Artillery Park and the entrance gate of the old capital. A gunsmith named Janardan Karmakar from Dhaka made this back in 1637 under the instance of Islam Khan (Subahdar of Bengal), following instructions of Daroga Shere Mahomed and the supervision of Kara Ballav Das. Murshid Quli Khan bought this to Murshidabad when he shifted his capital from Dhaka (then Dacca) to here. It originally rested on a carriage with wheels and was surrounded by the roots of a Peepal (Ficus religiosa) tree. 

- Details - This cannon weighs 8000 kg. It is 17.5 ft. long, 3 ft. wide, circumference of its mouth > 1 ft., radius of the silt for containing fire is 1.5 inch, orifice of 6 inches, made with 8 metals (ashtadhatu - tin, iron, silver, zinc, mercury, gold, lead, copper), needs ~17 kg gunpowder for a single shot.

A piece of gory history

• Name - Tomb & Mosque of Azimunnisa Begum

• Location - 5-6 km from Hazarduari Palace, Murshidabad, West Bengal.

- How we reached? - E-Rickshaw (locally called Toto) from Lalbagh, Murshidabad.

- Entry? - Free (Dec'21)

Azimunnisa Begum (or, Zainabun-nisa-Begum) was the daughter of Murshid Quli Khan and wife of Nawab Suja-ud-daulla. Our guide told us about her horrific past which I found difficult to digest. Diptesh remembered another version from his childhood trip above this place, which is may be too politically incorrect to say nowadays. According the more believable version, she was a nymphomaniac. She was a ravishing beauty who attracted many extramarital affairs. On discovery of this her husband killed her and buried her here. The version the guide told us is, She had a life-threatening disease and as cure was was advised to eat the livers of freshly slaughtered children. Even after getting well by doing this, she remained addicted to it. As a result people used to call here 'Kalija-Khaki Begum'. Unable to stop her, Murshid Quli (or, her husband) stopped her by burying her alive her at this tomb.

- Details - The tomb is located below the entrance stairs, just like Murshid Quli's tomb (in Katra Masjid campus). The mosque here is in a ruined state. Only thing remaining is an arch, it indicates that it was well decorated.

A 'failed' construction

• Name - Fauti Masjid (erroneously called Futi Masjid or, Futo Masjid)

• Location: ~1 km from Hazarduari Palace, Murshidabad, West Bengal.

- How we reached? - E-Rickshaw (locally called Toto) from Lalbagh, Murshidabad.

- Founded on - 1740

- Entry? - Free (Dec'21)

An impressive, huge structure in a state of decay with overgrown vegetation. It was planned as a mosque back in 1740 by Nawab Sarfaraz Khan (grandson of Murshid Quli) but, was never completed. Out of the planned 5 domes only 2 were completed. No one ever read Namaz here. Its construction stopped when Sarfaraz Khan died in Battle of Giria against Alivardi Khan (1740). As before its completion, the Nawab passed away -> called got 'Faut'-ed in colloquial vernacular, the masjid was named as Fauti Masjid.

- The tale of 'hole': If the local folklore is to be believed, Sarfaraz Khan died on the battlefield by lightning; at the same time lightning struck the mosque as well and created a big crack (futo in Bengali) in the dome.

- The tale of 'single day': Sarfaraz asked to built the mosque within a single day. When the work could not be completed, the masons fled, this the construction was forever abandoned. This is what most local people believe (as out toto driver told us too).

- Details - Currently, a dilapidated structure. The inside is grand. The entry to mosque is via a small flight of broken stairs. There are 5 entrances and 4 attached towers. Inside there are small damaged staircases on each cornering it to climb up to its roof, which you will not find in any other brick mosques of the 18th century in West Bengal. Each door frame is made of Basalt stone. Above the door frame there is the arch styled decorative element of lintel. There are triple Mihrabs on the wall facing the middle entrance. The walls facing other door has single Mihrab.

<= PART-1 PART - 3 (Azimganj) =>

References:

1. Google Maps, Wikipedia.

2. Newspaper clippings, personal experience.

3. The Musnud of Murshidabad, A Synopsis of the History of Murshidabad for the last two centuries, Purna Ch. Majumdar.

4. Seir Mutaqherin or, View Of Modern Times by Seid Gholam Hossein Khan

5. A History of Murshidabad District by Major J. H. Tull Walsh.

6. Select Views of India by William Hodges