Murshidabad, Pt. 1, Series: Bengal before 'Calcutta'

'History is not was, it is.' - William Faulkner

A Prologue to Murshidabad:

Muslim rule in erstwhile Bengal first started back in 1203, when the Hindu King of Bengal was Sen dynasty's Lakshman Sen, whose seat was Gour Or, Luknowti/Lakshanavai (25 miles south of Maldah in left bank of Ganga) and capital was in Nawadip. Under the patronage of the first sultan of Delhi Qutb AL-Din Aibak, his Turk-Afghan military general Muhammad bin Bakhtiyar Khilji stormed the gates of Bengal's capital with only 17/18 horses. The king fled as he was foretold by his court astrologers that his doom in form of Khilji is upon him. Khilji won without any fight, superstitions were so powerful, even for a 'king' apparently.

For the next five centuries (1203-1704), Bengal had 68 rulers in total, all Muslims except one (more accurately 1.25). Raja Kans wrestled back reins from Sultan Shamsuddin (1385-92) but, his successor and son converted to Islam as Sultan Jalaluddin to restore the status quo. During these five centuries the seat of the Bengal Govt. was in Dhaka, in 1704 it was moved to Murshidabad. 1704, marked the destiny of another covert, his name Muhammad Hadi. History says, he was originally a Brahmin, though his original name and whereabouts are lost into oblivion but, a guide in Murshidabad told us his original name was Surya Narayan Mishra (more about him while discussing Katra Masjid).

A lesson in Geography:

Before delving into the past of Murshidabad, Azimganj and Cossimbazar, it is important to note down an important aspect of its geography. In between Murshidabad and Saibad previously river Bhagirathi was circuitous in nature. Sometimes after early 1800's, it left its old bed and from near Azimganj made a straight cut towards south east leaving Cossimbazar on the left (or, east). This affected Murshidabad into two ways. Firstly, European factories (in total three) near Cossimbazar and Farrashdanga suffered financial downfalls, forcing European trades down south (along Hooghly river bank - Chinsurah, Bandel etc.).

This justifies why we found only a very few European establishment here (like cemeteries, obelisks and churches. Secondly, the abandoned riverbed created swamps like Motijheel, Kati Ganga and Bansbari jheel (I couldn't find this one though), which are now tourist spots. Due to this erstwhile circuitous nature of Bhagirathi, Murshidabad was situated on what was then known as the Island of Cossimbazar, bordered by Padma river at north, river Bhagirathi on west and south and Jalangi river on east.

The TRIP

[24th December 2021, Friday]

Along with my friends Diptesh, Koushik and Arnab, I planned a trip to visit Murshidabad and its surrounding historical places. We boarded Hazarduari Express from Kolkata Station at 6:50 AM. We reached Berhampur Court Station at 10:14 AM. We were staying at The Bliss Hotel Govinda, some 750 meters walking distance from the station. Diptesh was joining us from Asansol via a 7 hrs. long bus ride. By the time he reached it was 2:30 PM. Hence, our plan for the day was reduced to visiting two places only - Khoshbagh and Motijheel.

A Garden Cemetery

• Name - Khushbagh Or, Khoshbagh.

• Location - Murshidabad, West Bengal, on the west bank of river Bhagirathi, about a miles walk from Ferry Ghat.

• Founded On - (1740 – 1756)

- How we reached? - E-Rickshaw (locally called Toto) from Berhampur to Lalbagh Sadarghat (Ferry Ghat) >> Cross Bhagirathi via ferry >> Walk ~1.3 KM or, take a Toto.

- Surprise, surprise - If you are travelling Khoshbagh via car or, Toto from Lalbagh, no bridge is there to cross the river. But, vehicles are placed on the boat (two joined boats with a wooden platform on top) to cross along with people and sometimes even domesticated animals.

- Entry? - Free

- Guide? - Optional (Charge Rs. 50/-, Dec'21)

It hosts the graves Nawab Siraj-ud-Daulah, his wife Lutfunnisa Begum, his brother Mirza Mehdi, his grandfather Nawab Alivardi Khan, Alivardi's wife within a mausoleum and other family members outside the mausoleum - all belonging to the Afshar dynasty families. Khoshbagh means "Garden of Happiness". It was built by Alivardi Khan within walled enclosure. Inside which is a garden, a square mausoleum surrounded by a verandah and a mosque mimicking the Jama Masjid of Delhi. When Siraj died in the Battle of Plassey (1757), his wife Lutfunnisa escaped to Dhaka. She later returned and said to have lived in Khushbagh tending to Siraj's grave and the 108 varieties of roses which once bloomed in the gardens once. After her death (1790), she was buried near the grave of Siraj.

- Details - The grave of Siraj has an adjacent plaque, located east to it is Mirza Mehdi's grave, south of it is Lutfunnisa, beside her Mirza Mehdi's Wife. At the center of the mausoleum under an arched structure is the grave of Alivardi Khan with Sharf-un-Nisa (his wife) on its south.

- What left unanswered -

• The guide showed us two graves outside the mausoleum as Amina and Ghaseti Begum. This doesn't tally with the book 'The Musnud of Murshidabad'.

• The book 'The Musnud of Murshidabad' says the other two graves within the mausoleum are of Meher-Un-Nissa (or, Ghaseti Begum - Siraj's aunt, eldest daughter of Alivardi, a co-conspirator against Siraj) and Amina Begum (Siraj’s Mother). History says, they were drowned by Miran (Mir Jaffar's son) while they were crossing the river in a boat. Then how can these be here? N:B: Alivardi’s third daughter's name was Munira Begum.

We skipped Dahapara (Jagabandhu) Dham (birthplace of Saint Jagatbandhu Sundar), Kiriteshwari Temple (one of 51 Pithasthan where the Kirit/crown of goddess Sati is said to have fallen) and Roshnibagh (Mukbarah/mausoleum of Shuja-ud-Din Muhammad Khan, son-in-law of Murshid Quli Khan) some 8 km from Khoshbagh due to starting late and as it was already getting dark. We walked back to the river Ghat, crossed the river back to Lalbagh for Motijheel.

A Lake of Pearls & surroundings

• Name - Motijheel.

• Location - Murshidabad, West Bengal, on the east bank of river Bhagirathi.

• Foundation - (1740-1755)

- How we reached? - From Khoshbagh cross river to reach Lalbagh Sadarghat (Ferry Ghat) >> walked about 1.7 KM following google map.

- Entry? - Rs 30/- for eco-park entry, Rs 20/- for light and sound show (Dec'21), free for adjoining Masjid.

- Guide? - Optional (only needed for Masjid, charge Rs. 50/-, Dec'21)

Motijheel is supposedly made out of an abandoned bed of river Bhagirathi. Geographically it is a horse-shoe lake. It was known as the Company Bagh, during its occupation under East India Company. The spot has been re-created again as a pleasure garden providing renewed beauty while losing all historical value.

- What is now lost? -

1. Here a palace having a Sang-E-Dalan (stone hall) was created by Nawazish Muhammad Khan (also called Nawazish Ahmed Khan, Shahamat Jang), the nephew and son-in-law of Alivardi Khan (husband of Ghaseti Begum) with materials from the ruins of Gour. Now it is totally destroyed with no remains at all (except a mosque). In past, this palace severed as home for Shahamat Jang with Ghaseti Begum, then Siraj (1756), Mir Jaffer (1758), Robert Clive (1765), Warren Hasting (1771-73) etc.

2. Siraj envious of Motijheel Palace built a palace named Hirajheel on the other side of Bhagirathi. Nothing remains of it now.

3. On becoming nawab, Mir Jaffar built a palace named Baraduary (palace with twelve doors) here. It is totally gone now.

4. Opposite to the Kala Masjid on the east banks of the lake used to be an ornamented mosque known as the Raesh Bagh.

- The Masjid compound of Shahamat Jang - When we reached it was 5:45 PM, the mosque compound closes at 5PM. Hence, we came back the next day to visit again. The mosque Kala Masjid is still active. Hence, not open for non-religious public entry (I read in the mosque a Koran calligraphed by Shahamat Jang is kept, but couldn't verify this).

To the east of Shahamat Jang's mosque, is a small enclosure with four tombs and to the east of which is one. None of these have name tags to help us identify. Two tombs are of marble (they are of Shahamat Jang and his adopted son Ekram-ud-Daulah), one of black stone (Ekram's tutor), one of ordinary sand stone (Shahamat Jang's general Shumsher Ali Khan) and the fifth is ordinary masonry (Ekram's nurse). Ekram was the younger brother of Nawab Siraj ud-Daulah. All these tombs are in highly dilapidated condition mostly ruined and with no visible attempt for maintenance.

Here the grave of Edward Keating (son of Mr. Keating, 1774, Superintendent of the Murshidabad Mint) is supposed to be present, I couldn't find it.

- The City gate of Motijheel - A large, broad, massive structure newly fixed (not sure how much of it is original now).

- Eco Park of Motijheel - A local picnic spot. We attended a light and sound show here (timings - 5:40 PM, 6 PM, 6:40 PM; December'21) detailing the history of Murshidabad (mainly Siraj-ud-Daulah).

[25th December 2021, Saturday, Pre-Lunch]

A Palace, a garden and a Jain Temple

• Name - Kathgola.

• Location - Murshidabad, West Bengal, on the east bank of river Bhagirathi.

• Completed on - 1873

- How we reached? - E-Rickshaw (locally called Toto) from Lalbagh.

- Entry? - Rs 10/- (Dec'21)

- Guide? - Optional (Charge Rs. 50/-, Dec'21)

Back in 1870, Rai Bahadur Lakshmipath Singh Dugar (leading zamindar/landlords and banker of Bengal) started creating this palace. This garden once grew Black Roses. From that name, it got the name of Kath Gola (Golap).

- Details - The entrance of Kathgola is huge-sized, yellow in colour. The Corinthian pillars have stucco floral designs in it.

This three storied palace is ornate with grand Corinthian pillars, having a overall fusion of architectural influences from Greeks, Italian, Rajasthani and Mughal styles. The ground floor comprises a central drawing room, library, billiard room, dining room and a bedroom. The first floor comprises a central hall with two bedrooms, music parlor and a family room. The second floor contains a bedroom and a private sitting room.(Only ground floor is accessible to the visitors)

Naubat Khana - Adjoining the entrance gate is a Naqqar Khana or, Naubat Khana. 'Naqqar' is English means drum. Such drum houses are used as orchestra pits during ceremonies. They are a distinct sign of Mughal architecture.

Palace interior - It consists of Italian marble, mosaic, Bengal Lime works, Pillars polished with Sea Shell Lime, Wooden Carvings, chandeliers , period furniture, Belgian mirrors and glasses.

Garden & Campus - A sprawling 45 acres land filled with fruit bearing and flowering plants, Italian marble fountains, statues, flowerpots, cast iron chairs, a step well (3 levels) called Baoli, a zoo and a Adinath Temple. In garden, two statues of a person on horseback is there on either side of the pathway (they are probably of the Dugar brothers).

Adinath Temple - Located at the end of garden, it hosts terracotta murals, polished columns and mosaic floors.

The temple was built in 1933. The guide told us that the idol is 900 years old. It is dedicated to the first Jain tirthankar or preceptor, Adinath or, Rishabh (According Bhagavat Puran, one of the 24 avatars of Vishnu). 

The architecture wraps a European bungalow-style façade around a traditional Jain interior. The interior is decorated with traditional Bengali plaster-work ("chun-surkhi kaaj") as well as Rajasthani/Mughal motifs. Photography and wearing any leather made thing inside the temple is prohibited.

Zenana Mahal - Newly renovated mansion, to the south east corner of the main mansion. It is two storied and usually under lock and key.

Zoo - Opposite to the step well, there is a renovated zoo with birds and fishes.

- False stories? -

• Our guide told the step well has an underground pathway that led to the opposite bank of Bhagirathi River and it got filled with water after a devastating flood. This is surely gibberish. It is a step well mimicking those found in Delhi or, Rajasthan.

A home of the merchants of the worlds and a conflicting pair of Temples

• Name - The premises (house?) of Jagat Seths.

• Location - north of Nashipur, Murshidabad, West Bengal.

• Founded on - ?

- How we reached? - E-Rickshaw (locally called Toto) from Lalbagh.

- Entry? - Rs 10/- (Dec'21)

- Guide? - Optional (Charge Rs. 50/-, Dec'21)

This family to which these premises belong was originally founded by a Jain merchant named Hiranand Shah from Nagaur, Rajasthan. His son Manikchand, helped Mughal Emperor Farrukhsiyar financially, and was awarded the title of Jagat Seth in 1715. It literally means "banker/ merchant of the world". In 1750s, their family wealth was estimated to be 14 crores. Jagat Seth had a monopoly of minting coins in Bengal. Alivardi Khan's military coup was financed and planned by the Jagat Seths (all successive male heirs of Manikchand was called so). The Jagat Seths acted as moneylenders to the East India Company too.

Jagat Seth led a conspiracy against Siraj-ud-Daulah, along with Mir Jaffar, Krishna Chandra Roy etc. Mir Qassim (Mir Jaffar's son-in-law) after becoming Nawab, ordered killing of Jagat Seth Mehtab Chand in 1763. Kushal Chand (Mehtab's son), was granted the title of Jagat Seth, but then the British transferred the treasury and mint to Kolkata. Hence, the need of a private banker at Murshidabad was diminished. Kushal Chand adopted a nephew Harreck Chand, who was conferred the title by the British. From a Jain Harreck converted to Vaishnavism. Harreck’s son Indra Chand was the last of the descendants to have this title of “Jagat Seth”. From Harreck Chand, the Seth’s family continued as Vaishnavas.

- Details - Now the residence (originally perhaps the banking premises) has been converted into a museum. This museum name 'House of Jagat Seth Museum' was established in 1980. It is privately managed. It contains personal possessions of the Jagat Seth family including coins of the bygone era, muslin and other extravagant clothes, Banarasi sarees embroidered with gold and silver threads.

Pareshnath Temple - Dedicated to Pareshnath or, Parshvanath or, Parasnath. He is the 23rd Tirthankar of Jainism, born 273 years prior to Mahavir. It is located on the western section of the campus.

Laxmi Narayan Temple - In the same premises there is this temple, which has been renovated in recent times. Originally created in 1798 by Harreck Chand.

- According “The Musnud of Murshidabad” “The major portion of the house has been cut away the river” (1905). I saw recent reconstruction under progress. May be they are trying to create a replica of the original residence here.

A so called 'Raj' bari and its nearby Akhara

• Name - Nashipur Rajbari and Nashipur Akhara.

• Location - Nashipur, Murshidabad, West Bengal.

• Founded on - 1865

- How we reached? - E-Rickshaw (locally called Toto) from Lalbagh.

- Entry? - Rs 20/- (Dec'21)

- Guide? - Optional (Charge Rs. 50/-, Dec'21)

The current renovated palace was built by Raja Kirti Chandra Singha Bahadur in 1865. Adjoining ruined (currently) old palace was built by Raja Debi Singha. It acted as the court for Debi Singha. Debi Singha, was a tax collector (cum torturer) for the British Raj. He was originally a native of Panipat who started as a trader. He was notorious for torturing tax defaulters, even till death.
N:B: Debi Singha >> Balwant Singh (adopted) >> Gopal Singha …(?)… >> Kirti Chand Bahadur

- Details - The house is renovated and turned into a museum. It is a 2 storied one with a flight of staircase. Currently, a yellow building with green doors, windows, Ramachandra Temple, Lakshmi-Narayana temple, a Nat mandir, long corridors and a nearby Nau bat Khana.

In a corridor there is a picture of Hirabai. She was the dream girl of the 18th century (the main attraction of the parties thrown by Debi Singh).

While traversing around the campus in a certain room I found a hidden gem, let's read about this below -

Art Museum of Panchanan Chakraborty: He is a least known, greatly talented Bengali artist who has a small, dedicated museum inside Nashipur Rajbari. He is an art graduate from Calcutta Art College (1979), who is settled in Lalbagh. His specialties are paper collages, tin sheet art, wooden art, watercolor, Paper Pulp, thin aluminum wire art etc.
There is a giftshop adjoining the museum, one can buy poster prints here which are replicas of Panchanan Chakraborty's sketch work, these represents the wall art found in the Char Bangla terracotta temple of Baranagar, Azimganj, West Bengal. These temples were created during the time of Nator's queen Bhawani.

- Akhara - situated close to the the Rajbari. The Akharas are traditionally for the bachelor life. This particular one hosts old articles like huge utensils, a vintage car - Fiton model (said to be priced Rs 80/- at it its time), chariots made of gold and silver.

The Akhara is famous for its celebration of Jhulan Yatra (in the monsoon month of Shravan, celebrating pastimes of Krishna and Radha).

A traitor's world - Gate & Cemetery

• Name - Namak Haram Deorhi & Jafarganj Cemetery.

• Location - One KM North of Hazarduari, Lalbagh, near Mahimapur, Murshidabad, West Bengal.

- How we reached? - E-Rickshaw (locally called Toto) from Lalbagh.

- Entry? - Not allowed for Palace, free for cemetery (Dec'21)

- Guide? - Optional for cemetery (Charge Rs. 50/-, Dec'21)

Mir Jafar and his son Mir Miran convinced Muhammad-I-Beg to assassinate Siraj-ud-Daulah after the Battle of Plassey in the campus of this Deorhi (as per book Seir Mutaqherin or, View Of Modern Times by Seid Gholam Hossein Khan), beside the public road under a Neem tree on 2 July 1757 (historian Robert Orme says, Siraj was murdered in Miran's palace Mansurganj Palace, opp. this Deorhi; Alternative theory - Siraj was murdered at Hira Jheel Palace). He also betrayed Siraj during the Battle of Plassey and conspired with Robert Clive. Hence, he is notorious in Bengal's history as a traitor.
The palace originally used to have towers, turrets (small tower over large building) and a cannon. Now only the Deorhi (gate) remains. It is here where the secret conference was held, just before the Battle of Plassey, between William Watts (chief of Cossimbazar factory of E.I.C.), Mir Jaffar and Miran. Watts made Mir Jaffar and Miran swear on Quran to betray Siraj in the Battle of Plassey.

>>Gate - Namak Haram Deorhi, literally translated as the 'Traitor's Gate' this construction is presently in ruins. It is the original entrance to Jafarganj Palace, currently another entrance gate inside this one is created to keep out any tourist. This palace is a private property and the owners do not allow entrance here. You can see till the ruined gate only. This was was the palace of Mir Jaffar before his pseudo ascension to the throne of Bengal.

>>Cemetery - The Jafarganj Cemetery is situated just beside the main road. The family of Mir Jafar were mostly buried here. Originally, it was a favorite kitchen garden of Shah Khanaum Begum (Mir Jaffar's first wife & Alivardi's sister). On her death at 1766, it was turned into a cemetery and she was cremated here. From a guide entertaining other parties and wiki, Some of the graves I could find information on are of:-

• [1765] Mir Jaffar, his wives - Shah Khanaum Begum, Munni Begam, Babbu Begam,

• [1766] Mir Jaffar's 2nd Son Najmuddin Ali Khan or, Najm-ud-Daulah

• [1770] Mir Jaffar's 4th Son Sayyid Ashraf 'Ali Khan Bahadur or, Ashraf Ali Khan

• [1770] Saif ud-Daulah

• [1793] Son of Mir Jafar and Babbu Begum, Mubarak ud-Daulah & his wife Faiz-un-nisa Begum

• [1824] Mir Jaffar's descendent, Sayyid Ahmad Ali Khan or, Nawab Nazim Walla Jah & his wife Nazib-un-nisa Begum

• Mir Jafar's father Syud Ahmed Nazafi

• Mir Jafar's brother Muhammad Ali Khan

• wife of Nawab Nazim Ali Jah Bohu Begum

• Babar Ali

• Sons-in-law of Mir Jaffar, Ismail Ali Khan and

• Humayun Jah & his wives - Umdat-un-nisa Begum, Amir-un-nia-Dulhan Begum, Sultana Ghetiara Begum, Rais-un-nisa Begum & his another wife Mehr Lekha Begum (or, Guiti Afroz Mahal, previously a mut‘ah wife)

Information Note: Nikah mut'ah means "pleasure marriage" or, temporary marriage. It is a private and verbal temporary marriage contract that is practiced in Twelver Shia Islam in which the duration of the marriage and the mahr (bride dowry) must be specified and agreed upon in advance. Although in modern times such a thing is considered obsolete, due to the availability of fast travel, and primarily exists in Iran and Shia regions for sexual pleasure reasons as a means of Halal dating.

There are in total 1100 cemeteries here. One spooky thing is the graves of known females (begums) are enclosed within four walls. Apparently in death also they remained covered in veil.

A 'new' palace

• Name - Wasif Manzil

• Location - very near to Hazarduari, Lalbagh, Murshidabad, West Bengal.

- How we reached? - E-Rickshaw (locally called Toto) from Lalbagh.

- Entry? - Not allowed inside Palace (Dec'21)

- Guide? - N/A

The original palace (two-storied) with this name was destroyed due to a earthquake in 1897. The current one (without the second storey) is a rebuilt version of 1904. Located in between Hazarduari Palace and the South gate of the Nizamat Fort campus, it is a palatial structure built by Nawab Wasif Ali Mirza as his residence. Due to being relatively new it is also called the New Palace. The main architects of this building were Mr. Henry Vivian (PWD Officer, Nadia Rivers Division) and Surendra Borat (engineer).
N:B: Mir Jafar > Najmuddin Ali Khan > Najabat Ali Khan > Ashraf Ali Khan > Mubarak ud-Daulah (son of Mir Jafar and Babbu Begum) > Mansur Ali Khan > Hassan Ali Mirza > Wasif Ali Mirza

- Details - Our toto driver informed us that currently entry to this is not allowed, I saw the main gate closed and locked out. Hence, didn't try. Until 2011, tourists could enter inside purchasing a ticket of Rs 1.00. From the outside I saw, the entrance to be a Norman archway. This is a category of Romanesque architecture developed by the Normans (Normandy - Norse Viking settlers + indigenous West Franks & Gallo-Romans). I googled to find out that Mr. Vivian was a Norman draughtsman. The palace has a semi-circular pediment with the Nawabs of Murshidabad's coat of arms on it.

Part - 2 =>

References:

1. Google Maps, Wikipedia.

2. Newspaper clippings, personal experience.

3. The Musnud of Murshidabad, A Synopsis of the History of Murshidabad for the last two centuries, Purna Ch. Majumdar.

4. Seir Mutaqherin or, View Of Modern Times by Seid Gholam Hossein Khan

5. A History of Murshidabad District by Major J. H. Tull Walsh.

6. Select Views of India by William Hodges