Hampi: Tales from the splendorous ruins of an erstwhile city in Karnataka, Pt.3

"ARCHITECTURE SHOULD SPEAK OF ITS TIME AND PLACE, BUT YEARN FOR TIMELESSNESS." – Frank Gehry

There are about 40 major points of attraction within the Royal center of Hampi. To see them all first one need to read about them beforehand. I have made a promise to myself, after visiting Hampi and Ajanta Ellora. No more ignorance. We can best accept when we are wrong and don’t repeat the mistake anymore. Hence, let’s move on.

The boulders of Hampi:

The boulders in Hampi is actually composite granite. They belong to Eastern Dharwar Craton. 'Craton' is a piece of the Earth’s crust that has existed as a solid, without being modified by plate tectonics, since they were formed. Hence, it can be concluded that these boulders are highly metamorphosed. The Indian land is made up with many such tectonic zones, mobile belts and granulite terrains. Let's refer to the map below for a better understanding -

The ‘hound’ and the ‘hare’:

Setting: A sunny morning in southern Indian. On the banks of river Tungabhadra, two hunter brothers and their ferocious chaser hounds.

Frightened hares were running around the bushes on hearing sound of growl from the hound and footsteps of hunters horses. The hounds gave a chase; hunter were ready pounce. They were running for their life, the hares. Suddenly, they turned and faced their eminent death with angry faces. The hounds were taken aback. Their bark turned mellow, they stepped back, the hares walked away.

• Bukka to Hukka: “Sahōdara, ī bhūmi vicitravādudāgide athavā ēnu?” (Brother, is this land strange or what?)

• (An unknown voice): “Adu vicitravalla, adu dharmaniṣṭhavāgide” (It is not strange, it is pious.)

Startled they turned around to see the holy man, a picture of peace with blazing bright eyes.

• Hukka, Bukka together: “Nīvu yāru? Ō pavitra age ṣi.” (Who are you? Oh holy sage.)

• Vidyaranya: Nānu śr̥ṅgēriyavanu. Hesaru vidyāraṇya. (I am from of Sringeri. The name is Vidyaranya.)

The brothers fell onto his feet. The sage was doing his penance in Tungabhadra. Nobody knew his whereabouts. He gave them his blessings and asked -

- “Nīvu svanta rājyavannu racisalu prayatnisuttiddīri endu nānu kēḷide. Īgāgalē nūrāru ive, nim'madu hēge bhinnavāgide?” (I heard you are trying to create own kingdom. There are hundreds already, how is yours any different?), the sage asked.

- "Satya mattu n'yāya nam'ma dhyēyavākya. Nāvu sthāpisalu bayasuvudu aṣṭe" (Truth and justice is our motto. That's all we want to establish), Hukka responded.

- "Śānti mattu samr̥d'dhigāgi saha śramisi" (strive for peace & prosperity too), Vidyaranya smiled. "Satya mattu n'yāya!! Nantara nīvu adannu vijayanagara endu kareyabēku mattu nim'ma rājadhāni molagaḷalliyū bhayavillada sthaḷadallirabēku, ellarū dhairyaśāli. (Truth and justice!! Then you should call it Vijayanagar and your capital should be in a place where there is no fear even in hares, all are courageous), he quipped.

The brothers bowed, Tungabhadra sighed of relief and soon Vijayanagar emerged with Hampi as its capital.

NOTE: Hukka was a name of Harihara the first, the first king of Vijayanagar Empire. His brother Bukka was the first crown prince.

The ‘hound’ and the ‘hare’: A Historical clarification

Some 700 years ago, South Indian kingdoms were not united. Then forces of Muhammad Bin Tughlaq (Sultan of Delhi) started invading south. Out of necessity a certain King Veera Ballala (last kings of Hoysala Dynasty) tried uniting all Hindu kings and chieftains. He too failed. He was a sort of a mentor to Hukka and Bukka. Hukka was like William Wallace of Braveheart (come on you morons, go watch the film if you haven’t already). He along with his brother went to different places inspiring and mobilizing significant number of youths to fight together against the Sultan. They ceased Sultan’s forces and created a new kingdom called Vijayanagar Empire.

Traversing through the history:

Let’s wrap up Hampi's Royal Center today. I would try to keep the desire to digress at a minimum.

Re : DAY - 2 & 3: [HOSAPETE - HAMPI] – 15-16th August 2019 (Thursday, Friday)

ROYAL CENTER

Prasanna Virupaksha/ Underground Shiva Temple - Due to being built many meters below the ground level this temple's sanctum and the core parts mostly remines under water with restricted entry to the inner areas. A water cannel system too is visible around the main temple, during our visit which was dry. So, we walked down to a point from where it’s impossible to go further. This is situated at the western most extent of Danaik’s enclosure. There is a small temple for Siva’s consort too near the mail shrine. It has been believed that this is one of the oldest temples in Hampi. The main hall in front of the shrine is huge with massive cubical pillars supporting the roof. The lamppost actually protrudes through the roof. Depending upon the water level one may be able to proceed to the sanctum area. There is a beautiful lawn built around the temple. It is facing east and is dateable to the 14th Century.

Danaik's Enclosure - Also called Dannayaka's enclosure is a systematically partitioned campus within Royal Center. Some experts believe, it is here where the state mint was located, and hence a portion of the campus is called the Mint. Others believe that this was the area of the city’s administrative and high-ranking officers. The word 'Danaik' refers to commander in chief or the Mayor of the city. The seat of the Danaik in the enclosure as evidence supports this argument. Some others believe this had been used as a military training area for the elite army. In short it is not sure what is was. The below mentioned establishment falls within this enclosure:-

• Palace of Vira Harihara - Most palatial structures in Hampi are now turned into just ground level remains and associated structures. This one however is still somewhat standing. When we were there, I was unaware of its significance. The base of this palace is located inside a compound that is at south of Hazara Rama Temple. The original entrance to the compound is at the eastern side of the wall. Immediately north of it is an elevated structure, sticking to the N.E. corner of the compound wall, with a dozen or so steps leading to its top. The king supposedly used this platform to board on the royal elephant. Just east of this is the base of the ruined palace of Vira Harihara II, the third king of the Vijayanagar dynasties who ruled during the last part of the 14th century. What remains is at the best a pattern of the palace plan. A slot with stairs at the north end gives access to the bottom of the well. What’s believed to be a court structure is located just southeast of the palace base. Further south of it are the royal residential blocks complete with the kitchen and other associated structures. The area was also called the Mint based on the mention in one of the chronicles by the travelers who visited this capital in the 15th century. The main way to access this palace area is through the Danaik's Enclosure. Immediately after entering the Danaik’s Enclosure, take a leftward going trail. The elevated elephant alight platform with stairs at the distant corner is an indicator for direction towards this area.

A point to mention here, I saw there a lot of Muslim folks that day near the Danaik's enclosure. Let, me explain, it is not that I was shocked to see them as explorers. It is just that they seemed really serious. Hence, I was amused as how so, thinking this was a place to relax and get awed. Our driver said they was just common locals. Hence, I thought they are just enjoying there holiday. I was only partially right.

I am pretty sure we visited all the other parts of Danaik's enclosure too. Knowledge is boon and ignorance is a curse. To save a few bucks we didn't hire any guide as I mentioned earlier. The effects it had were felt in Badami, Aihole and Pattadakal too. But mostly we missed a fortune of experience in Hampi. With no clear memory and pictures to account for, I am putting the places within Danaik's enclosure I don't recollect among the list of missed places. One point to note beforehand, this cleared my confusion about the prior mentioned crowd too -

• Most Probably missed (ignorantly) - Mohammadan Watch Tower, Mosque, Band Tower, Noblemen’s Quarters, Granaries.

• No admission fee. Photography allowed for all the places in enclosure.

Zenana Enclosure - Accessed via the Underground Siva Temple. This means lady’s enclosure, it was a secluded area reserved for the royal women. This is a walled enclosure area. There are the traces of a number of unnamed structures and a separation walls inside this campus. The whole Zenana enclosure is encircled with tall and broad walls made out of cut stones arranged in interesting patterns. The construction style of the wall is noteworthy. The enclosure had been strategically designed for the women to watch the royal ceremonial functions or the march past in privacy. Another school of archaeologists believes this was never used as the women’s area rather as council rooms for the chief commanders; the rectangular enclosed building at the northwest corner was the armory or mint or treasury rather than the quarters for the eunuch guards; and the palace belonged to the king. The path to the other locations like the Elephant Stable, Guard’s Quarters runs through the center of this area. The whole area is now made into a sort of open garden with sprawling lawns. This is one of the few places in Hampi where visitors have to pay for the entry ticket.

• Lotus Mahal - The exact function of this is not surely known. Most probably this was a socializing area for the women in royal family. Also known as Chitragani Mahal and Kamal Mahal, this falls under the secular or nonreligious categories of structures in Hampi. It’s peculiar to note that this is one of the beautiful structures that were left undamaged during the siege of the city. However there are some signs of mutilations on a few sculptures placed on the outer surface. Unlike the other major structures in Hampi, this is made out of lime mortar and brick made composition. The shape of the structure is what brought it the name. The archways and the balcony with the domed construction resemble a half opened lotus bud and hence the lotus bud shape carved on to the center dome. Basically this is a two storied structure with an open base floor the sidewalls are having tall arched windows. The upper floors have balconies with arched windows. Hook like structures are made on to the wall close to the windows to hang curtain. The arches of the ground floor are recessed and ornate. The decorations and architecture is a curious mix of Hindu and Islamic styles. Lotus Mahal’s Islamic style arches and the Hindu style multiplayer roof and base structure are often quoted for the ingenuity of the Vijayanagar artisans.

• Elephant's Stable - Located at the east of the Zenana Enclosure and is one among the few least destroyed structures in Hampi. This long building with a row of domed chambers was used to ‘park’ the royal elephants. There are 11 domed tall chambers; some of them are interconnected. The center one is specially decorated and big. Probably the musicians and the associated band troupes had been using this during ceremonies involving elephant processions. The whole building looks symmetric with respect to this central hall. The tower of the central hall resembles (though mostly destroyed) more like that of temples. However, the five pairs of domes on either side are of Islamic in style. They are better preserved and of alternating patterns. Metal hooks (used to tie the elephants) on the inside roof can be seen. At the rear of each hall are small manhole type openings for the mahouts to enter the elephant compartments.

• Most Probably missed (ignorantly) - Queen's palace, Water Pavilion, Royal Treasury Building, Watch Towers, The Guard’s Quarters.

• Charges for Entry. Videography has additional cost.

Royal Enclosure - A fortified area sprawling over many hundreds square meters, scattered with a number of interesting relics: Mahanavami Dibba, Dassera Platform (House of Victory). This area is a wide-open ground with little shelters inside. The road going towards east from the Underground Shiva Temple arrives at a T Junction, the right turn southward took us to the Royal Enclosure area. We saw most of the Royal Enclosure without identifying each separately (except Stepped Tank and Mahanavami Dibba), photos taken came to my rescue while writing.

• Long Stone Trough - Long slender piece of rock is lying just outside the King’s Audience Hall. The aristocrats while attending the King’s court left their horses here to drink water from this trough. The trough could hold well above 2000 liters of water and about two dozen horses could drink from it at a time.

• Kings Audience Hall - A 100 Pillared Hall on an elevated platform located in the northwest corner in the royal enclosure. Sometimes this is referred as the Durbar Hall. The super structure is not present now. But at the rear of the hall, a stone stairway suggests it was a two-storied structure. On the platform are the sockets for the 100 wooden pillars once supported the superstructure. They are located in a symmetric array of 10×10. Owing to this at times people used to call this the 100-pillared hall. It’s believed that this is the place where the king listened to the public of their grievances. Archaeologists unearthed traces of wood ash from the socket holes. This confirms the theory that superstructures in this area were made of wood and it went with flames during the arson.

• Stepped Tank - This has been excavated only in the 1980s. Each and every stones (thousands of them) and ‘earmarked’ and arranged in a stepped pattern. It almost looks like a ‘negative pyramid’. That’s an inverted pyramid of crater made on the ground. Then look close on each (any) stones, they all are engraved with some sort of mason marks. This suggests that these were planed and made elsewhere and later just ‘assembled’ at this location.

• Queen’s Bath - For some mysterious reasons this was called as the Queen’s Bath. But in all probability this was a royal pleasure complex for the king and his wives. The whole building is made with a veranda around facing a big open pond at the middle. Projecting into the pond are many balconies. An aqueduct terminates in the pond. The domical roof of veranda is a spectacle itself. Outside, around the building is a big water canal encircling the building. Probably this was designed to prevent intruders from walking into the place where the royal women folks were taking their bath. The architecture is: Indo-Saracenic in style, may be a bit more Islamic style than the Hindu style of architecture with the arches and other decorations.

• Mahanavami Dibba - This is the tallest structure in this area. From a distance this looks like an elevated square stage. The whole structure is made as a giant square structure in three layers. There are mainly two stairways to reach the top. The front one (east facing) is highly decorated on either sides with carvings of elephants, horses and a host of other things. At the back of the platform a twin staircase is located. Probably this was used as a service staircase during the ceremonies. The sides of this three layered platform is basically fluted design with chains of sculptures (largely of elephants one behind the other). The most celebrated of the carvings are of the panels at the sidewall in the bottom portion. These dexterously carved sculptures and ornamentations depict anything from the royal ceremony to the city life to the erstwhile foreign envoys to the kingdom to the hunting scenes. Also any things from the Portuguese to Arabic to Chinese connections are visible. Probably this was made as a photo gallery for the benefit of the foreign envoys who had been visiting the capital. King Krishnadevaraya constructed this in commemoration on the victory over Udaygiri (Orissa). Archeologists believe that this platform had undergone systematic enhancements by successive kings came into power. The king used this platform to watch the army march-pasts, war games, aquatic sports, shows of the royal animals, musical performances and also the most important Navaratri celebrations.

• Most Probably missed (ignorantly) - Horse Stables, Underground Chamber, Chandrashekara Temple, another Saraswathi Temple, Octagonal Bath, Basement of Ruined Palaces.

• No admission fee. Photography allowed for all the places in enclosure.

Hazara Rama Temple - On day two while coming back from Kamalpur, we witnessed long arrays of carved wall stories related with Ramayana. I knew we were at Hazara Rama. This is not a huge temple. But it has its own set of attractive peculiarities. It was a private temple for the king/royal family. Hence within the royal area. The temple got its name 'Hazara Rama' (a thousand Rama) owing to the multitude of Ramayana panels on its walls. The dusty path that connects the Royal Enclosure with the Zenana Enclosure passes along the temple courtyard. Also the path from Danaik’s Enclosure and Underground Shiva Temple joins this path at its n-e corner. The exclusive path was once used by the king (Krishna Devaraya) to access the Hazara Rama Temple. This pathway connects the Palace of Krishna Devaraya and the Hazara Rama Temple.

There are many other places in Royal Center that are worth your time. But due to our limited time or sometimes just lacking in knowledge we missed some of them. Let me list those which I know as of now and not have been listed yet -

• Missed - Pan Supari Bazar, Yellamma Temple, Ranga Temple, Tenali Rama’s Pavilion, Srinagarada Hebbagailu, Bhojanasala, Palace of Krishnadeva Raya, Rockcut Shrine.

to be continued....

<<== PART -2 PART - 4 ==>>

References:

1. A Forgotten Empire (Vijayanagar) – A contribution to the history of India, Robert Sewell

2. Verghese, A., (2002), Archaeology, Art and Religion: New Perspectives on Vijayanagar, Oxford University Press, New Delhi.

3. Michell, G. and J. M. Fritz, (1986), Hampi: Splendors of Vijayanagar Empire, Lavanya Publishers, Bombay.

4. Hampi Archeological Heritage Tourism Destination - An Analysis, BRICS Young Scientist Forum, Bangalore Conclave 2016, 25 Sep—01 Oct

5. Wikipedia

6. IMDB

7. Google Maps