Hampi: Tales from the splendorous ruins of an erstwhile city in Karnataka, Pt.1
- nitishb
- May 21, 2021
- 8 min read
Updated: Aug 21, 2021
“GOD IS IN THE DETAILS.” – Mies van der Rohe
If they ever invent time machine, I don't want to live here, in this 'now' anymore. Sent me back. Oh, sent me back. To those days of Vijayanagar Empire. That would be my heaven. Alas! the empire is long gone. Its relics scattered across a breathtaking boulder strewn landscape. Desolate ruins, lacking the antiquity of Egypt, the precision of Inca stonework or the mathematical coding of Angkor Wat. But those stones, chiseled by man into intricate divine forms. They whisper stories you know, if you have the ears to hear.
YouTube has opened a Pandora’s box for me. Visual history is so simulating, it has started to affect my daily works. Once back in 2015, I saw a subtitled Kannada biopic on the Vijayanagar empire’s greatest ruler – Krishnadevaraya. It left great imprint on my subconscious, I knew those ruins are imbued with magical stories. The opportunity to witness those in person, came four years later.
Once I started researching Hampi, I became fascinated by the history behind it and the architecture that is still in place. My goal was to learn about the history, see the architecture and pen down personal experience. Couple of months into this venture, I realized that the magnitude of this work is beyond my lifetime. In addition to Hampi, on the same trip I visited Badami, Pattadakal and Aihole too. It made me realize what a fool’s errand it was to try to cover a trip of this importance only in three days. Alas, we all have our limitations. However strong my desire was, the options in terms of days were limited. I had to make do. Anyhow, I would start of this article with this following advice if it matters to anyone, please keep at least seven days if you can only for Hampi.
I have tried to note how we planned our day, what we missed (and we missed a lot), the history behind and some of the architectural highlights. Let me beforehand ask for forgiveness from any potential reader, for the nature of digressiveness in detailing. It is definitely one of my fallacies which I am trying continuously to overcome.
A few days within writing I realized not only will this be a multi part article, I most definitely will have to write Badami and other places separately, as Hampi itself (even the minuscule we saw) would take many days of writing to complete. Each succeeding part is hyperlinked at the end of each article for suggesting continuity.
A brief intro about the ‘Forgotten Empire’:
The historical plot:
Currently Hampi, the place was erstwhile the kingdom of Vijayanagar Kingdom. In 1336 A.D. the kingdom of Vijayanagar (mostly Karnataka) was founded, and monarchs of the new state became lords of territories lying between Dakkhan (southern Maharashtra) and Ceylon (Sri Lanka). Vijayanagar was founded in haste, a combined southern Hindu dominion. As, Warangal, Dvarasamudra – two already defeated state by Delhi Sultanate submitted to principality of Anegundi to create great Vijayanagar, kings of Anegundi became monarchs of Vijayanagar – The City of victory. It was created to fight against the fast approaching Muhammadan force (Tughlaq) from northern India and remained the savior of south from the coming 250 years. Very little reference from that time is present currently, only last symbol is the lying near the little village of Hampi. A city of marvelous size of prosperity, empire fell in 1565.
The First dynasty: Sangama
Timeline
Pre-1336 (~1334) A.D. Md. Bin Tughlaq captured Kampli and Anegundi – then chief of Anegundi slain
Death of Tughlaq’s rebel nephew (Baha-ud-din) who was sheltered by Anegundi governor. Hence, he was also punished.
Malik Naib made new governor > Disturbance > Revolution > Sultanate returned the place back to Hindus.
1336, New Chief/Mahamandalesvara (formerly chief minister) Deorao/ Deva Raya/Hukka/Harihara Deva (advisor, Madhavacharya Vidyaranya) – formed Vydiajuna >> Vijayanagar, increased security, reigned for 7 years, build temple dedicated to Madhavacharya on the river banks
1343, Succeeded by Chief Bukka/Bucarao/Krishna Raya/Kishen Roy – reigned for 37 years (brother of Deorao), conquered most south (not by force, by submission of other chieftains) including Orissa
~1379-80, Succeeded by (Rajadhiraj) Pureoyre Deo/Harihara Deva 2 (son of Bucarao), Sayana (brother of Madhavacharya) was his chief minister, his favorite generals were Mudda, Iruga (son of Chaicha, religiously Jain), Gunda; Harihara Deva 2 was a worshiper of Virupaksha (form of Shiva) but tolerant to other religions too.
1405, Succeeded by Bukka 2 (son, very small duration)
Nov 5, 1406, succeeded by Deva Raya 1 (brother) – first to call himself kind in this dynasty, reign together about 14 years; these two brothers and jointly called by some historians as Ajarao (thinking they were the same person)
1413, Succeeded by Vira Vijaya/Visaya (son), reigned for 6 years
1419, Succeeded by Deva Raya 2 (son), reigned for 25 years, fought with Ala-ud-din 2, aided Sultan’s brother Md. Khan in his rebellion, had a minister named Naganna (title Dhannayaka) in command of his army
1444-49, reigned by Deva Raya 3 (may be account, not proved)
1452-52/1464-65, reigned by Mallikarjuna (may be account, not proved)
1470, Reigned by Virupaksha 1 (may be account, not proved), unworthy king (according Nuniz)
1479-80/1486-87, reigned by Rajasekhara (may be account, not proved)
1483-84, reigned by Virupaksha 2 (may be account, not proved)
Line of succession (/Reign): 1336-1489 >> kings highlighted, m. - married
The Second dynasty: Saluva
Timeline
~1485-90, fall of old royal house, usurped by Narasimha Raya I (of Family Saluva, his ancestor may have been Saluva Timma, who was a minister in court of Krishna Raya/Bukka 1), died leaving two young sons, hence ruled by minister Narasa Nayaka/Vira Narasimha
1491, Thimma Bhupala succeeded his father under the patronage of Narasa Nayaka, soon died.
1491-1505, brother of Thimma Bhupala Narasimha Raya II was king just by name under the grip son of minister Narasa Nayaka, with the young kings death the dynasty also died.
Line of succession (/Reign): 1485/90-1505 >> kings highlighted, m. - married
The Third dynasty: Tuluva
Timeline
1505, minister Narasa Nayaka's son Narasimha Nayana (Vir Narasimha) arranged assasination of Narasimha Raya II, usurps throne.
1509-10,Succeeded by Vira Narasimha > then his son Busbal Rao/Basava Raya (contradictory accounts),
1509-10, Succeeded by Krishna Deva Raya (brother/uncle of Busbal, contradictory account) – known to be the most beloved, gallant, statesmanlike king:
Battle of Raichur won from Adil Shah, Battle of Mukal.
1513, built Krishnaswami Temple (after return from successful campaign in east)
1513, commenced making Hazara Ramaswami Temple
Improved irrigation system
~ <1520, Made new city Nagalapura now known as Hospett/Hosapete, this was kings favorite residence dedicated to his favorite wife, quondam (former) courtesan Nagala Devi.
Also appears to have commenced making Vitthalaswami Temple
1528, constructed Laxmi-Narasimha (Ugra Narasimha) statue, hewn out of a single boulder of granite (near south western angle of Krishnaswami Temple)
Donated to repaint the tower (gopura) of the temple of Virinchipuram and Sankalapura
1530, Succeeded by Achyuta (brother) – start of fall of empire
1542, Succeeded by Sadasiva –controlled/virtually prisoner to his three minister (brothers themselves): Rama Raya/Aliya Rama Raya, Tirumala, Venkatadri
1565, Aliya Rama Raya killed, empire overthrown by confederation of five Muslim kings (Hussain Nizam Shah 1 (Ahmadnagar Sultanate), Ali Adil Shah 1 (Bijapur Sultanate), Ibrahim Qutb Shah Wali/ Malki BhaRama (kingdom of Golconda), Ali Barid Shah 1 (Bidar Sultanate), Burhan Imad Shah (Berar Sultanate, part of Andhra)) in battle of Talikota, capital almost wiped out of existence, in this was most of the temples were ruined after the enemy won, even they broke Ugra Narasimha stature partially
1568, Tirumala murdered Sadasiva, took over throne – Call it start of fourth dynasty
Line of succession (/Reign): 1505-1568 >> kings highlighted, m. - married
The Fourth dynasty: Aravidu
Timeline
1568, Tirumala 1 – usurper
1575, Ranga 2 (second son)
1586, Venkata 1 (brother), reigned for 28 years
Seventeenth century history of southern India is filled with confusion
1617, Battle of Toppur
Vassal chieftains of last king of Vijaynagar (Sriranga III) Ikkeri/Bendur chiefs claimed to be under lords of Vijayanagar till 1650
Sivaji conquered Konkan by 1673, four years later he overthrew last shreds of Vijayanagar authority from Kurnool, Vellore
As late as 1792/93 – copperplate names Venkatpart Maharaya of Vijayanagar, this is where my curiosity ended.
Line of succession (/Reign): 1568-1648 >> kings highlighted
Let's get and idea about what Vijayanagar Empire used to look at its peak -
The Geographical Divide:
Located on the banks of River Tungabhadra, Hampi geographically speaking is spread in Hosapete taluka of Bellary district and Gangavati Taluka of Koppal district in Karnataka. It was sacked in 1565 by the armies of the Bahamani sultanates. For hundreds of years, the City of Victory lay abandoned until it was rediscovered by the British in the 19th century.
The entire site is divided into two parts. To the south of the River, the site is characterized by Prime Archeological Remains, rich agricultural lands, Kamalapur Tank and Kamalapur Town. And to the north of River Tungabhadra the site is having an outstanding natural setting with several granite hillocks and the 'Royal Village' Anegundi. Anegundi village was called as 'Mother City' from which the Vijayanagar Empire started and is one of the living suburbs of pre-Vijayanagar period. In Anegundi lies in the mythical kingdom of 'Kishkinda' or 'Monkey Kingdom'. Anjanadri hill near Anegundi village is believed to be the birth place of monkey - god 'Hanuman'. We went there on 16th August after completing visit to the majority of southern river side on 15th. At that time, I was not aware of 'Pampa Sarovar' located to the west of Anegundi village. Hence, we missed it.
The journey:
It was probably (most surely) the last trip of us four friends (as we were back then) myself, Samit, Koushik and Diptesh. Whatever happened later, this will forever remain one of the crown jewel in my memory palace. The plan was set into motion by Samit, I travelled from Kolkata via flight to join the other three in Bangalore, where they live at that point of time as working professionals, it was 14th August 2019.
DAY -1: [KOLKATA - BANGALORE - HOSAPETE] – 14th August 2019 (Wednesday)
On the night of 14th August 2019, I met up with Samit at the Yelhanka railway station near Bangalore after taking a cab from Kempegowda International Airport. From there we boarded our reserved train for Hosapete. Koushik and Diptesh joined from Yeshwanthpur station.
DAY - 2 & 3: [HOSAPETE - HAMPI - KAMALPUR - ANEGUNDI] – 15-16th August 2019 (Thursday, Friday)
On 15th, the day of our countries independence, early morning, we reached Hosapete (~12.5KM from Hampi) and checked into our pre-booked Hotel Malligi. The staffs were very accommodating and well behaved. They have a travel desk near the reception, who arranges personalized trips to Hampi and other nearby places. We booked car for three days, first two for Hampi and the third one for Aihole, Pattadakal and Badami. After breakfast we started our trip which lasted till evening. The same routine was repeated for the next day too. Our driver acted as a pseudo guide, I had my fair share of readings done too.
“Beauty perishes in life, but is immortal in art” - Leonardo da Vinci.
Once you enter Hampi, the famed medieval capital of the Hindu empire Vijayanagar (the City of Victory), you witness the city ruins dotted around the hills and valleys with 500 plus monuments. Among them are beautiful temples, basement of palaces, remains of aquatic structures, ancient market streets, royal pavilions, bastions, royal platforms, treasury buildings and whatnots. The scale is unimaginable. It is then when it first hit me, the sin I had committed by only accounting for two days for this place. Hampi in a sentence is ‘a backpackers’ paradise and at the same time the pilgrims’ delight’.
I forgot the exact order in which we visited the various place, it has been almost 2 years since. Hence, in the following parts of this article series, I will list the places in order of convenience referring the local map rather than forcing my shaky memory. Remember - The area where most of the temples are concentrated is called the Sacred Centre. The citadel area where the courtly structures are scattered around is called the Royal Centre.
to be continued....
PART - 2 ==>>
References:
A Forgotten Empire (Vijayanagar) – A contribution to the history of India, Robert Sewell
Verghese, A., (2002), Archaeology, Art and Religion: New Perspectives on Vijayanagar, Oxford University Press, New Delhi.
Michell, G. and J. M. Fritz, (1986), Hampi: Splendors of Vijayanagar Empire, Lavanya Publishers, Bombay.
Hampi Archeological Heritage Tourism Destination - An Analysis, BRICS Young Scientist Forum, Bangalore Conclave 2016, 25 Sep—01 Oct
Wikipedia
IMDB
Google Maps
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