The "other's" neighborhood: Chinatown - PT. 2, Achipur

'While migration is inevitable, the fact remains that most people leave their homes to escape violence and the certain persecution that comes from it.' - Richard Grenell

Achipur is located roughly 20 miles from Kolkata, nowadays main pilgrimage destination of the Chinese diaspora in India, especially during the Lunar New Year. Reconstructed in 2004, Achipur is host to some of forgotten sculptures of Indian history like the horseshoe-shaped tomb of Atchew, one of the oldest Chinese temples in India - Bogong-Bopo etc.

The semi-mythical pioneer figure Tong Atchew, who is now perceived as a collective ancestor for Chinese Indians used to live there.

This is a story in three parts, this current part being the second one. :)

ACHI-SAHEB - the "Thongyeng Pakkung" (in Bengal during 1778-1783):

Atchew was part legend, part deity and part local landlord. The title "Thongyeng Pakkung", roughly translates into “sugar plantation master”. But “Thong” could also refer to the Thang dynasty in ancient China. Inhabitants of the village named Achipur after him, they called Atchew “Achi saheb”.

In the regional folklore some stories about Atchew are quite famous –

‘a Chinese ship caught in a storm washed up in Calcutta and Hastings agreed to give the sailors land where they could settle’ is the most popular one. But there are others like -

‘Atchew was on a ship with a British captain, who accused him of smuggling in two stowaways. But then the stowaways turned themselves into pieces of wood and Atchew realized they were gods. He later planted them on land where a temple was built.’ The area where the temple is located in Achipur is still called China-man-tala. Another one lore about choosing Achipur says -

‘Atchew did Hastings a great service, so the governor general decided to reward him with land. Atchew and his men could have as much land as they could cover in one morning. He moved swiftly and covered so much ground that Hastings regretted his promise.’

More details with a mix of fiction about Atchew's life can be found from a racy Bengali novel called Chinatown, written by Badrinath Das and published in serialized form in Basumati magazine in 1958. It probably drawn from stories circulating in Kolkata at the time. In one story, Atchew knew the trader, James Flint, in Canton, which ensured that he had “patronage in the aristocratic English society in Calcutta”. Badrinath Das also writes about a lurid tale of murder and deceit, involving Atchew’s daughter, an untrustworthy business aide who “seduces” her, and a mysterious chest left behind by Atchew after his death. (I got these details from a scroll article, I tried searching for the original book with no avail).

The documented facts that could be found about Atchew are : Land was granted to him, this much is known from the archives of the India Office. A British document from 1778, which says Atchew received a large land grant from Hastings in return for a gift of tea. There used to be a sugar mill and indigo plantations in Achipur. The sugar mill near the town of Budge Budge (Achipur) drew Chinese migrants and soon a small community had formed around it. By 1783, Atchew was dead, according to the Badrinath Das book all Chinese families disappeared from Achipur within a few years, moving to better prospects in Calcutta and confirming Atchew’s worst fears.

Both the inhabitants of Achipur and the Chinese community in Calcutta say that Atchew married a Muslim woman, though nothing else is known about her. “Achi Saheb's wife was called Teli Bibi,”.

My Trip to Achipur

Following my heritage walk in Old China Town, Kolkata back in 3rd July 2019 with Dr. Tathagata Neogi of the immersive travels company, I became their follower in the social media. Covid pandemic played havoc to the travel plans of all of us. Hence, I was waiting patiently for them to schedule one in Achipur once the situation improves.

My wait was finally over on 13th February 2022 when the famous blogger Rangan Datta on behalf of the immersive travels company scheduled a heritage walk to Achipur.

On the said Sunday morning, I reached the given pick up point i.e. the Balwant Singh's Eating House in Bhowanipore, Kolkata to find out that, I was the only participant who has booked this walk.

The professionalism of immersive travel group is unparalleled. Even with only one participant they didn't cancel this walk as, the possibility of rescheduling was not there; because Indian-Chinese populace only visit Achipur heritage sites during the next two Sundays of the Chinese new year. Hence, only during this time the sites are in well maintained state and chances of seeing some old customs & rituals are high.

Now let's mention the Chinese veneration sites here and discuss about them -

The best way to reach is via train. Get down at the new Budge Budge station and take an auto till baro-Shib-tala (pronounce properly, as there is another place here viz. buro-Shib-tala, which would take you to a totally different place). The locality is near Pujali (~5 km from station).

One can see a signboard pointing towards China-man-tala (which means the locality of the Chinese man) from there take the road towards left and go for another ~1.5 km to reach the Achipur Chinese Temple.

Bogong-Bopo

This major Chinese veneration site in Achipur is believed to be built by Atchew himself.

The deities:

If folklores are to be believed, Atchew brought the two idols of Bogong and Bopo from China and erected this 'temple' here. It is most probably the oldest Chinese temple in South Asia. Some say, the idol were brought by Atchew but, the temple was erected later by someone else. These idols are alternatively called Tudigong / Thu Tai Kung / Dharti Pita / Khuda and Tudiphow / Thu Tai Phow / Dharti Mata / Khudi respectively. Tudigong (on right) is the “Lord of the Soil and the Ground” while Tudiphow (on left) is his consort.

There is another third deity whose photo can be found on the same campus on the left hand side. He is the tutelary deity (guardian of a place).

The occasion:

The following Sundays of the Chinese new year, the Indian-Chinese populace from Kolkata travel here to pay homage to these deities. The old faith is Bogong and Bopo protects them in a foreign land.

The campus:

While entering though through the main gate, I saw it had Chinse designing. After entering there is a large field on left to be used by the community for their religious festivities. This being another pandemic year the field was empty. There was a large waterbody in the middle of the field.

Rangan da suggested, that before entering the main compound to pray people used to wash themselves here. Towards right, is the main temple compound. We entered though the small gate, to see small rooms to the left - one having the photo of tutelary deity.

I read somewhere that in addition to him, these rooms hosts Dakshin Rai (a revered deity in the Sundarbans who rules over beasts and demons) and Kali too. Although I was unable to distinctly identify them.

The main compound:

On entering the main temple, I saw a few Chinese people offering prayers. Candles and incense sticks were lit, paper money was being burnt symbolizing that the ancestors will revive them in heavens.

The main two idols have distinct Chinese appearance but, their head gears are Islamic. The low ceiling and pillars of the temple have some wood works, walls have eye catching Chinese calligraphy. There is a main alter, several prayer halls, a place for Chinese fortune tellers and at the backside of this compound a Hindu shrine .

Kau Chim:

The fortune tellers place is on the right of the temple compound. Here devotes play 'Kau Chim', fortune telling with the help of small sticks.

One has to pray and shake the container with these sticks and the one that stands out will have the fortune for the New Year.

The back gate:

According to the inscription (top of entrance) written on the back gate of this temple - it was built in the year 1718. However, Rangan da said, it is doubtful as, the first Chinese settlement in this locality was around 1780. So may be the inscription was done later and 1781 was mistaken as 1718.

The ownership:

The temple structure was probably built over the land that once was part of the sugar mill built by Atchew. Currently this temple and the land around is owned and maintained by Hee Hing church and club located in Tiretta Bazar.

Usually this time around in every year a lot of traditional festivities are celebrated on this temple ground. The last three being pandemic years the celebrations were rather muted. Only a handful people visited through the weekdays and weekend from 6th-13th Feb. Hence, There was not a lot happening except the devotional prayers. It was time for us to go to our next stop.

The Tomb (?) or, Memorial of Atchew

Some ~1 KM from the temple, right on the banks of Hooghly, lies the red horse-shoe shaped memorial of Atchew.

The Location:

This place is sandwiched between two brick Kiln ('iit vata' in Bengali). Locally it is known as the grave/tomb of Tong Atchew. Some also calls it the Choto China Mandir. Though Rangan da clarified this tomb is just a symbolic one. The original one is most surely lost.

The Principle:

The Taoist Chinese follows the tradition of ancestor worship. So, in that regard, Tong Atchew is their most important god. We stayed there about an hour to see many Chinese families visiting. They prayed with incense sticks and gave flower offerings, burnt paper money and crackers.

I heard from Rangan da, in normal times different clubs used to perform Lion dance in front of this memorial. The memorial has a Chinese plaque, which supposedly reads 'Yang Da Zhao', believed to be the real name of Atchew by some.

The diversity of our land:

Nowadays, both the temple and this memorial is maintained by local Muslim caretakers. The one in the temple is known to Rangan da, his nickname is Gopal, only in India one can find a Chinese veneration site maintained by a Muslim with a Hindu nickname :D. This makes me proud. The memorial has two caretakers. One was an old Chacha (uncle) selling incense, crackers and flowers to the Chinese populace another one was Aiyatollah bhai. Rangan da struck quite a communication with him. He is the uncle of Gopal and the previous caretaker on the temple. Now, due to some family dispute after the passing of his elder brother, he stopped going there.

The 'Ulu' and the 'Vut Bouri':

I saw some bundles of dry straw laid over the walls of the river bank. The caretaker Chacha informed us sometimes old Chinese pilgrims buy these here, though the custom is slowly disappearing. He said these are 'Ulu' and 'Vut Bouri'.

(on right, in pic) - 'Ulu' is Cogon grass, scientifically called Imperata cylindrica (of family: Poaceae). This is a is a water-loving grass is found all over Bengal. The flowers are pure silky white. Some local names for this are Ulu-ghash, Ulu-khor, Lalong, Shon, Chhon, Chhau, Sarkanda etc.

(on left, in pic) - Aiyatollah bhai said 'Vut Bouri' comes from drying out the 'Gubra' gach (tree). This confused me even more. Now, I had two Bengali words about which I had no idea - 'Vut Bouri' and 'Gubra'. I am still unable to find out what its commonly known name is given I only had these dried up shrub pictures as the only reference.

Rangan da enquired with the Chinese families present there to know from an Older woman that they used to take these shrub straw and keep in hot water through the night. In morning, after filtering out the straw, the water was used to bathe newly born infants to increase his/her immunity. Though as with all homemade remedial customs in other Indian cultures, this too is disappearing in rapid pace from the Chinese Diaspora of Kolkata.

Mystery of Atchew & the sugar mill

• According historical records, Achipur was officially Atchepore. Recorded history says, a businessman Yang Da Zhao from Guangdong province came here to settle down. This is curious, as this place should had been a cultivated or, uninhabited land. Hence, why would any businessman land here directly?

• Normally any businessman would first land at Calcutta to meet the Warren Hastings, the then Governor-General of Bengal. But, Hastings was powerful and influential, commoners could not simply meet him directly. If Yang Da Zhao/ Tong Atchew had good connections in 1778 within the company, then this was surely not his first trip?

• Why would Hastings be interested in a sugar mill instead of other bigger ventures?

Probable reasoning:

Power play & business strategy - the white crystalline sugar was not available back then. The available one was 'Shakkar/Sharkara', native Indian brown sugar. We now use sugar and Sharkara to mean the same thing.

Sharkara (called Khand sometimes) was originally the brown, unrefined sugar of India prevalent in markets along with other sweetener Misri (Rock Candy) and Gur (Jaggery from sugarcane & date palm). Sugar or Chini was made popular here by these Chinese settlers.

The European markets got their sugar from the West Indian plantation. As a result these plantation owners dominated the sugar trade is Britain. Hence, to take the power and boost their own profits E.I.C. wanted sugar mills in the sub-continent. The Bengal governor wanted this new avenues of revenue generation.

In 1982 Atchew was in great debt. He wrote to Hasting asking support. He had a plantation dealing in Arrack (a distilled alcoholic drink), which is a byproduct of sugar manufacturing. Thus was automatically granted land near Budge Budge to set up his mill with laborers from China. Around 650 Bighas (260 Acres) were granted to him, leased from the Raja of Burdwan with an annual rent of 45 Sicca Rupees. The Bengal government paid this on his behalf. The West Indian sugarcane plantation had slave workers. To compete Atchew needed cheap labor. Hence, he influenced the Chinese immigration here.

The end of Achipur:

After Atchew's death in 1783, sugar mill in Achipur went into a downward spiral. In 1792–95, the court in London was petitioned by the plantation owners from West Indies to stop sugar import from Bengal on basis of malpractices in trade. As export from Bengal pays lesser taxes than their counterparts. A resolution was passed in court saying both imports had to follow equal terms. This was unsustainable for Achipur as it exported sugar of a lower quality. Hence, paying equal import duties and then selling low grade sugar at the same price as the high grade West Indian one meant sure and huge loss due to mass rejection. In November 1804 the mill at Achipur was auctioned along with all equipment. The mill lasted ~25 years in total. There are no official records saying who ran and owned this mill after Yang Da Zhao/Tong Atchew. Most Chinese laborers slowly moved into Tiretta Bazar and then Tangra towards new professions like carpentry, leather, dentistry, etc.

We stayed in Achipur for about 3.5 hrs. that day. Apart from the two places mentioned we had other historically significant stopping points. Our whole route was: "Old Budge Budge station tied with the history of Vivekananda >> Komagata Maru memorial >> Bogong-Bopo temple >> Memorial of Atchew >> Barudghar of Budge Budge, Achipur >> Achipur Post Office". As the other written places in this route is not directly connected with the Indian-Chinese diaspora, I will right about them in a different post.

References:

1. Google Maps, images, Wikipedia.

2. Newspaper clippings, personal experience.

3. Guide - Rangan Datta.

4. Bose, B. K. (1934). A bygone Chinese colony in Bengal. Bengal Past and present,47.

5. Oxfeld, E. (1993). Blood, Sweat and Mahjong: Family And Enterprise in an Overseas Chinese Community.(The Anthropology of Contemporary Issues). Ithaca: Cornell University Press.

6. Articles in scroll.in