Pin-Bhaba pass, Wang Khango trail - a monsoon spent in Himalayas

'When all this began, maybe there was a God. Maybe it was a baby, who carelessly ran a grimy finger across the surface of the Himalayas. Hmm!! life is easy if you have faith, right? But who needs easy?'

Travelling is more than just a tour, it is a tale. The tale I am going to write about today, has it's backdrop set in between the forests of Himachal & the arid expanse of Spiti - within the valley called Bhaba.

“When he first came to the mountains his life was far away On the road and hanging by a song But the string's already broken and he doesn't really care It keeps changing fast and it don't last for long…"

John Denver was not a mere singer, he was a magician, a fortune teller. I say this because while writing this song he saw my future. He saw that one day, at least for a brief while I will leave my mundane life behind and set sails towards the mountain. This weak human-child is not weak in wishing at-least. I do dream and sometimes some of it do come true. And so, came the day, when it all began – 20th July 2018, I had some space to breathe. I was going to the Himalayas in a monsoon leaving all the worries behind, even if only for a while. Pin Bhaba was calling me and I was duty-bound to answer.

This time we were a small group only, of five people (3 friends, a trek guide and one horse-handler). Samit is the constant whenever I go to mountains, this time around he brainwashed another – Sourabh, the ‘পাহাড়ি বিছে of Dehradun’ as we called him (pun intended). This was my second trek, but the first one in really high altitude. The challenges were new and tougher than anything I have faced before. I suffered a huge deal, had to go through motions of stress and anxiety. But the beauty I observed in those days, made everything alright. I am happy, I consider myself fortunate to have witnessed it all and then be here to tell the tale.

THE JOURNEY

DAY -1: [KOLKATA - NEW DELHI] – 20th July 2018(Friday)

It is a known fact, I am not the most suitable person to make or execute plans; specially if the plan has anything to do with travel. This time also – I maintained my reputation and managed to book a flight from Kolkata to Delhi at 8:10 AM despite being told specifically by Samit to book it at the same time but PM!!! Result – I was at Delhi some 12 hrs early, hence I had decided to venture alone to spend some time at Delhi and choose Swaminarayan Akshardham Mandir as my destination. What transpired that day was another interesting tale, but it is not the one I am discussing today.

Anyhow, Samit reached Delhi at around 11:50 PM that night, his flight was late albeit by 30 minutes only. We had already booked a cab from Delhi airport to Chandigarh bus stand through make my trip, it was a 260 km drive through the highway. We had a good driver, Lovepreet Singh.

DAY - 2: [NEW DELHI - CHANDIGARH - SHIMLA - KAFNU] – 21st July 2018(Saturday)

Lovepreet was a prudent driver, who drove across midnight with guile and dropped us at Chandigarh bus stand at about 5:15 AM. Within minutes we had a bus for Shimla and wasted no time in hopping onto it.

The road from Chandigarh to Shimla was quite all right but the condition of the bus was pathetic. It took us some 2.75-3 hrs. to reach the old bus stand in Shimla. From where our next target was to reach Kafnu.

Accessing Kafnu via Shimla is a bone-jarring experience. There is only one bus per day from Shimla to Kafnu which starts at about 7:30 AM, we missed it and hence was in a jeopardy. At about 8:30 AM we got a bus towards Reckong-Peo (the capital of the Kinnaur district, Himachal Pradesh). Following an almost 6 hrs. bus journey we got to Wangtu, from where Kafnu is about 20-22 Kms. At Wangtu, we were picked by a car arranged by our guide Billu Bhai (Billu Negi); it took us to Kafnu costing Rs1000/-. In between the HPTC bus stopped for lunch and also once at Rampur where we brought some vegetables to use during our trek.

At about 5:30 PM, we were at our home-stay in Kafnu. The owners were nice people. We had opted for local food and thoroughly loved it. We met Billu bhai face to face that day for the first time, he is a very humble and generous person.

Kafnu, a sweet little village located in Nichar Block of Kinnaur district in Himachal Pradesh. The village has about 180-200 homes (a wild guess). The natives here seemed mostly reliant on tourism and hydel project work on Bhaba river. The home-stay's roof had great view of the whole village.

Ours was a high-altitude crossover trek and the route was: Kafnu – Mulling – Karah Shepard’s camp – Phutsirang – Pin Bhaba Pass – Mangrungse – Mudh

Our trail consisted of river banks, footbridge, crop fields, passes through a mixed forest of conifers and temperate broad-leafed species, meadows of Mulling, fringes of birch. From a sheltered glade with a spring at one end and over a steep ascent to the pass, a gradual descent to pin valley, over boulder strewn glaciers. It had all and then some more.

DAY - 3: [KAFNU (7878 ft.) – MULLING (10637 ft.)] – 22nd July 2018(Sunday)~11 Kms (5.5 hrs.)

The next morning, we shopped for some basic commodities like sugar, rice, wheat etc. from a local shop owned by Billu ji’s friend whose car we had hired from Wangtu. Our homestay owner is a relative of the shop owner and he drove us to his shop; from there Billu ji took us to the trek’s starting point, at a mere 10 mins driving distance. We were all buckled up to start the main phase of our journey.

Before our trail left Kafnu, at about 180-200 meters walk from the village, we saw an underground dam, our guide Billu bhai told me it is India’s first underground dam name ‘Bhaba Hydro Project ‘. We walked some more, through Mastrang village following something which may well be described as a dirt road alongside some small hydro schemes. We then were up on a valley connected to a bridge. Once we crossed that bridge and turned left on the trail, we gradually entered a narrowed path. We walked upstream, made a few turns and entered a semi dense pine-forest (remember, my botany is really weak). The forests’ botany quickly changed, now we were trekking over roots of coniferous trees with a needle line of Pine at our sides accompanied by birch and oak trees. Here, Bhaba river cuts through the forests on our left.

After sometime, we had probably made half of our journey that day. I was faced with my first challenge: There was a log bridge to cross Bhaba river to reach its right bank. A bridge hanging over a fast-flowing river, that too of bare minimum breadth. Later I googled and found out that the place was Champoria. I knew the guide will help if I ask for it, but I didn't. I just ran, quickly to the other side, over the log bridge. I was panting, Billu ji was laughing ☹.

We were at an ascent for some more time, maybe around 4KM more. Now we were at Jhandi top (again Billu ji to the rescue). Mulling campsite could be seen from here, we were lead to some open pastures then and followed it up with a descend back to the river-side in Bhabha valley. We made camp at magnificent broad alpine valley - Mulling (10778 ft.) on a lush meadow. Tired, but happy to be in heaven.

DAY - 4: [MULLING (10637 ft.) – KARAH (11653 ft.)] – 23rd July 2018(Monday)~6 Kms (4.8 hrs.)

The start of a new day brought a new set of challenges for us. We started at about 9:30 AM, other groups who were also camped closed to us, had already left. Initially, we were walking through a rocky terrain, we were gaining altitude. About an hour passed, I saw the terrain changing gradually to expose some small meadows at our right. Another hour passed- chant of encouragement was going on, basically for the most lethargic trekker (that would be me, if you have not guessed already), 'चलो चलो , साबास साबास '; the voice was kinnauri (of Billu ji's). Samit was another incessant talker - but not words of encouragement, they were chides.'এই নাকি তুই marathon দৌড়াস' (Are you sure you run in marathons...). I was not paying attention, saving breaths you see, this weary traveler.

We climbed some more. 1-1.5 km may be, something was getting more and more prominent: a sound, of water flowing. Billu ji explained, it’s the sound of a river. But where was it? -> You see it was a subterranean river, water flows beneath the ground-surface. Fascinating, isn’t it.

I was a slow but constant walker. Even when I was weary, our guide helped me to keep my spirits high. Another helping hand was mother nature - exquisite meadow with flower beds.

We walked about 5 hrs. that day. As we were nearing the campsite - some 200-250 meters from the campsite maybe, I was awestruck: A small lake boasting stunning sunny reflection was visible now, with horses on its side, grazing. Those horses are one of the prettiest creations of God; long fluttering hair dancing in the tune of the scenery following the melody of light breeze.

A rush of red through the side of our trail. Billu ji shouted at us, check out those flowers and

rushed towards the camp, we didn't. Our tired legs suddenly had the energy to lift the world on our soldiers it seemed (igniting our inner Hercules). Damn the camp, we threw ourselves on the flowery bed, amidst the red ocean. The flowers seem in the left picture is most probably Bistorta affinis (as per I can remember Billu bhai notes) 45 mins passed within seconds, despite the huge resistance offered by our hearts, we had to walk towards the camp, where another surprise was waiting. We were at 11653 ft.

The extensive pastures of Karah is popular with shepherds. Indian govt. has campsite here. Billu ji was the overseer of such a camp, under him 5-6 people are responsible to maintain a heard sheep. A sheep had died, unknown reasons (or, at least not told to us clearly). Meant free lambs for us. That night was special, Sourabh has a good collection of old classics: Gulam Ali, Jagjit Singh and lamb - perfect combination.

DAY - 5: [KARAH (11653 ft.) – PHUTSIRANG (13474 ft.)] – 24th July 2018(Tuesday)~5.5 Kms (4.5 hrs.)

There are no road markers in mountains. That seems like a luxury. Hiking is a physical activity for sure, but there is a mental aspect to it. Like we gather information about how the trail is going to be for the day? how much of it will be ascent? will there be streams to cross? etc. But, the most important question is - How much do we have to walk? - The answer for which this day was 4.9 Km, hence it seemed today is the shortest day. How wrong I was.

We started at about 9:45 AM and was thrown into the clutches of 'tributary of the Bhaba river'; one has to cross a few of them to begin with - bare footed to save our shoes over icy cold waters, landing frequently on sharp-edged gravels and stones. Following this, prepare yourself for a steep ascent through the terrain made up with stone and slippery loose mud. Due to this terrain, it takes more effort to hike through.

In between our hike, we had some interesting lessons, the first of which was about botany. Billu bhai was a botany enthusiast, he introduced us to the garden called Himalaya. I can remember the names of a few - a flower belong to Gerenium family, Arenaria festucoides, Crambe kotschyana, Crotalatria tetragona, Potentilla atrosanguinea etc among over hundred different types of flowers we saw.

About the Gerenium one, Billu ji said, it is used to make Guggal dhoop (incense), I may have heard the name wrong, as I could not find any related information stating the same in google.

The second lesson started when we found Mica, a natural occurring mineral, a collection of silicate minerals composed of potassium, iron, aluminum, magnesium and water. It has thin-sheet like structure high in silica, with extensive capacity to remain elastic and tough even at high temperatures. Billu bhai said Mica is frequently found on the trail here, it's industrial use is as insulator, to brighten the tone of colored pigments. Later I found out, India is one of the foremost suppliers of mica to the world.

After crossing some mountain streams over dangerously sloped terrains, it was a relief when

the meadows and open valleys came into sight. Along the way Sourabh was being very courteous to the Shepherds we were encountering, he suggested me to try it, continuous communications keep your mind from getting tired which in turn helps you physically, he advised. Seemed a genuine suggestion. My smartwatch was showing distance covered as 5 KM already, and I knew the initial information we had about the distance to be covered was wrong. Oh! how I miss you ‘road-markers’!!!

There are two different main campsites in Phutsirang. First one is at lower Phutsirang, from where an almost 700 meters upward climb takes you to upper Phutsirang. It is the vantage point for three mountain passes as Billu ji explained (I later googled to know their heights): Nimish Khango (16,185ft), Tari Khango (17,318ft) and our destination Pin-Bhaba Pass / Wang Khango (16,105ft). When we completed our trek, it was about 3PM (as best I can remember).

Three teams made camp here - us, India hikes and Vikat adventures. Today was the last day when all these teams were in same route. As we were going to start for Pin Bhaba tomorrow and made camp at Mangrungse, Virat people were going to stop at Boldar next and India hikes had planned to stay for one additional day at Phutsirang for acclimatization.

Later on, while writing this blog I found out Phutsirang provides a view of the mighty Hansbeshan Peak (19,160ft). We took pictures of some peaks that day, but our guide missed to give us this information then, Hence I am not sure whether we saw Hansbeshan or not.

We were done for the day, the total route traversed was 5.5 Kms (according my watch). Billu ji told us to buckle up - the next day being the day of summit.

DAY - 6: [PHUTSIRANG (13474 ft.) – PIN BHABA PASS (16105 ft.) – MANGRUNGSE (13674 ft.) ] – 25th July 2018(Wednesday)~12 Kms (~10 hrs.)

On each day, once I reach the campsites, I used to feel acute sense of headaches. Each time it lasted for around 45 minutes (which seemed like a day then), after which my body started adjusting as I walked around the camp, drank some freshly made soup and talked stuffs. Billu bhai said, these are very mild symptoms of AMS. But I need not worry as it is nothing serious yet. In my mind I was a bit worried though, specially this being supposedly, the toughest day of our trek.

At Phutsirang the river is fanned out across valley floor. The early morning sun, glistening over the river water, tiny delta shaped islands (river-delta technically), grassland edges with a mix of green-orange hue - in my mind all of these seemed something out of a fantasy tale.

We started early today, at 5:45 AM to be exact. There was a tinge of nervous excitement which soon was suppressed by grunts of exasperation. The first part of our trek was almost

3 km steep ascent. While climbing up gradually, we were towering over the rest of scenery more and more, the snow-capped peaks were now almost at eye level. At about 3 km to from the pass, we crossed another river crossing, it was so terrifying that for a minute or two I had a minor brain-fade moment. Billu bhai grabbed my collars are dragged me through the river bed that had steel fall in both of its sides. It was a horrible experience while it lasted, but a tremendous one to write about now. 😊

The pass crossing is over a series of ledges, so the fun is in getting to the first ledge and then setting sights on the next.

The pass is narrow, almost knife like. The space just enough for a handful of trekkers to stand.

By the time we reached the pass (summit point) I was really done, no energy left what-so-

-ever, I seemed like the boy from Glucon-D advertisement who is having his brain punctured and emptied with a straw by the sun himself. Plus, there was migraines, it seemed like the end of me. But I persevered, as nether my friends nor our guide gave up on me, In fact now that I think back on those days and remember myself being the first one to reach the summit point, I am sure it was only because they allowed me to be, just simply to reassure me, that I am not at all dragging them down (which I really feel, I was).

Billu bhai taught us to treat the mountain pass as godly figures, ‘one can only make it to the summit point, if the pass allows us’, he said. ‘Hence we should do a puja once we reach there’; and he did. We had some Haldiram’s barfi sweet with us, it found its purpose that day for the pass-puja-ceremony.

I almost had to force everyone to leave the pass, as my migraines was becoming worse, Samit allowed us only after taking a group-fie (as usual, I look horrible in it).

The moraine(glacier) setting around the pass crossing is as beautiful as the first few days of the trek. But it is slippery as hell. My tired legs and unforgiving head were in no mood for

another shock so soon. Billu bhai asked us to place our footing carefully over the snow, everyone did except me off course. I tried, I swear but those treacherous snows. Within minutes I was sliding though, shouting in anger, fellow mates were laughing ☹.

The horror show was over after a couple of minutes, I calmed my nerves as the steep flanks of the pass leveled out and was astonished to fine the Pin valley spreading out in a riot of colors.

We only had made 75% of our journey planned for that day. Rest was along Spiti valley till Mangrungse. May be something broke in my head and I started running wildly.

Our mind plays tricks with us sometimes, mine may be a bit more frequent in this regard. When it computed that there was no energy left in my legs it tried to reinvigorate me with a sudden adrenaline rush. I ran and ran till my breaths gave out, and it did. There was that rush again, hence the running continued. I was leaving behind the lush grasslands of Bhaba valley and moving towards the brown, desert mountain valleys of Pin along the Pin river through a steep, tricky combination of moraine and scree. Rather fiercely as I already added. Five kms more and then the Mangrungse campsite could be seen below the trail.

The mountain stream trickling by near the Mangrungse, colors of the Spiti mountain ranges and semi-furious sound of the river Pin river – made all the labor till then worth it. Only issue was, I still had a slope of about 400 meters left, to climb down and nothing left in me to even try it. Hence, I did the next best thing – sat of the rocky slope and slipped myself though and hurrah, I was at our camp. The bruised bottom of mine could not bruise my ego as I had just made it out alive though the most dangerous day of my life. I was happy, contained and for the first time in last couple of days, there were no migraines at all. It was time although, for Samit and Sourabh to be sick now. ☹

DAY - 7: [MANGRUNGSE (13674 ft.) – MUDH (12283 ft.)] – 26th July 2018(Thursday)~20 Kms (~10 hrs.)

My brave friends pulled through and the next morning - we headed for Mudh. Our descent that day, took us through the Pin valley that lies on the periphery of the Pin Valley National Park. Billu ji said, lucky travelers get ample opportunities to have a glimpse at rare Himalayan birds and animals including snow leopards, ibex, and Himalayan fox here. We were semi-lucky. Hence only encountered some rare birds.

Once we climbed through the slopes from Mangrungse for about 4 km, we reached Bara Boulder. After this it was a gradual descent through moraine filled land dominated by red soil and small red stones. Although this day wasn’t tougher than the last one, in my mind there was a sense of achievement ‘yesterday’ which was missing ‘today’. The only encouragement was the knowledge that this was the last day of trek.

During our gradual descent, at around 11AM, we encountered something called Purchuning grass, Billu bhai informed this local variety makes cattle healthier. Hence, this part of Spiti acts as the primary grazing field for cattle around this time of the year.

Mudh is visible even from a distance of 5 km. What I saw was an otherworldly kaleidoscope: jet black mountain flanks, valleys with white and pink rocks, orange and purple hill sides and whatnot.

In Mudh, civilization greeted us after days of trekking with palpable Tibetan culture. Right before entering the village I encountered a stone-bricked wall, which Billu bhai explained as

a ‘Mani wall’. In Tibetan Buddhism

Mani stones/walls are stone plates, rocks inscribed with the six syllable mantras of Avalokiteshvara (‘Om mani padme hum’, meaning ‘hail to the jewel in the lotus’ – referring to Dalai Lama, I think). ‘These walls are made right on the entrance of a village, roadsides and rivers as offering to spirits of place’, Billu bhai said. ‘आपको इसके चारो तरफ चक्कर लगाके जाना हे, left to right’ (You have to circumvent it from the left side in clockwise direction), he added. I did just that. Not because I’m a really religious person, it is just as I try to follow the local customs in wherever I’m at, so that the locals’ feeling doesn’t get hurt.

Billu ji was stopping sometimes to talk to some passersby we were encountering, sometimes he would just give them a quick holler. This is the most interesting thing about villagers specially in mountains, as I have observed. Everyone is a relative of everyone else, either by blood or at least by common courtesy, unlike our big cities, where we may live under the same roofs as complete strangers.

Peeking blend of white houses with stark brown hilly background were welcoming us into Mudh. I crossed a makeshift suspension bridge over the pin river and followed it with a short

climb before reaching our destination. The multi-hued mountain vista, the barren landscape of Pin valley, a stark contrast to

the greenery of the Bhaba Valley - Mudh, with a huge mountain in its backdrop is a sight to behold.

We had a pick up car booked from Mudh to Kaza, which as our luck would have it, wasn’t there. Hence we waited and waited for 3 long hours, in the famous Tara Guest house. I could see a lot of bikers teams there, with both Indian and foreign team member. If you are starting from Manali towards Pin, Mudh is your last motor-able point, i.e. why I guess. Anyhow it seemed the whole village was busy to manage alternative transport for us, ‘here in this village everyone is each other’s relative’, an old lady explained. ‘Holy guacamole!!!’, again.

A boy of around age 16, came with an alto and agreed to take us to Kaza for a very lower cost we expected. Hence, we hopped on. On about 6:30 PM we were at Kaza in our pre-booked home-stay whose owner/manager was such an ass. I guess mountain makes your heart grow – doesn’t hold true for everyone. Our little kid-driver(Tenzin) managed a private car for us to take us to Manali from Kaza on the next day via Chandrataal, costing us Rs 9K/-, which others were offering us for Rs 13k/- and above, we went to sleep that night after taking an early dinner; as we had to start early the next day around 4:30 AM.

DAY - 8: [MUDH (12283 ft.) – CHANDRATAAL (14100 ft.) – MANALI ] – 27th July 2018(Friday)~201 Kms (~10 hrs.)

We started at 4:20 AM today, for the first around 5-6 Kms. the road was alright. Then started the jagged, cliffy bouncy terrain. After a brief halt at a place called Losar (~13382.55 ft.) for breakfast, we entered the least populated part of the Spiti Valley called Tud.

Kunzum Pass (~14931 ft.) is about 22-23 Km drive from there. The view from Kunzum top is flower bedecked slopes in foreground, backed by a vista of rocky massifs and hanging glaciers of Lahaul (valley). Every driver always stops here do give offerings to Kunzum la goddess.

The way to Chandrataal (~14009 ft.) begins a bit further down Kunzum, from a place called Batal (~12992 ft.) in the Chandra Valley, road there is mostly gravelly. All motor vehicles have to stop somewhat around 2-2.5 Kms before Chandrataal, after which we hiked again, much to the utter disdain of our almost quarreling legs.

We spent some 45 minutes at Chandrataal, took a lot of pictures and then had to rush back running as rain started to fall heavily. While running back I saw a lot of people down on the slope hiking towards the lake, Samit explained there is a trek route to Chandrataal too.

From Chandrataal Lake to Chattru (~11680 ft.) the road is mostly dirt track. Except at the crossing called Chotta Dhara (Small stream), which has ‘small’ in its name only. On that road in a car, it is a traveler’s nightmare, even so after bone-jarring trek lasting five days. Chotta Dhara (~12992 ft.) is unique, terrifying and beautiful all at once. There were boulders both big and small, spread around the way over high-speed stream flow, hence the journey was slow till we reached Gramphoo (~10499 ft.), just below Rohtang pass. Along the way there were multiple lengthy stoppages where Indian army assisted us by moving big boulders using a Crane to clear the road.

From Rohtang Pass (~13058 ft.) to Manali (~6726 ft.), it is about ~123 kms of mostly good road, remember I said – ‘mostly’. Our companion in this journey was some evergreen songs, classics from the early 70’s to the early 90’s handpicked by our driver bhai (really sorry here, forgot his name). By 7:30 PM we were at our hotel room in Manali, our hotel manager who initially seemed to be a jerk, was actually a great guys, as circumstances taught us later. It was time to say good-bye to my new friend Sourabh, his bus was leaving tonight for Deharadun. After some very light dinner myself and Samit went back to our hotel, what transpired later is a whole new story, I choose not to detail it out, don’t want to take the fun away with any doom and gloom. Just a brief mention though, the next 12 hrs. taught me many valuable lessons about life and friendship. It made me realize what great friends I have, I feel angry at myself for not acknowledging this earlier.

DAY - 9: [MANALI – NEW DELHI ] – 28th July 2018(Saturday)~532 Kms

We had a plan to explore Manali that day before catching a Volvo bus towards Delhi at the evening, but unforeseen circumstances forced our hands (which I already said, I will not discuss about). Anyhow we had enough time to visit the famous Hidimba devi temple.

Locally known as Dhungiri, Hidimba Temple, is an ancient cave temple dedicated to Hidimbi Devi, wife of Bhim (from Mahabharat). The temple, surrounded by Dhungiri cedar forest is situated at the Himalayas foothill.

Back in 1553 AD, Maharaja Bahadur Singh built this temple around a cave where the mythology says, Devi Hidimba used to performed her meditation. A dive into the puranas and web informed me that People in Manali worships Hidimba as a Goddess and on the days of Navaratri, special puja happens here on her honor (contrary to other Indian states, where Goddess Durga is celebrated on that time). Within the temple, there is a huge shaped rock on which a small brass image represents Hidimba Devi. I was talking to a local while Samit was taking pictures, who said : in old days - a rope hanging from the rock used to be tied to the ‘sinner’s’ hands to swing him/her towards the rock. – Not sure if it’s true though.

Very near to this temple , there is a shrine dedicated to Ghotothkoch (Hidimba's-Bhim's son). This was also the end of our exploration of Manali for this time.

We departed from Manali by 17:30 hrs for Delhi, from where we had our flight scheduled on the next day (i.e. Sunday – 29th July’18)

I found this book in Google reads which talks about a kinnauri song which goes like this "...Ganga Sahay Lotas, Ki And Rang Tha Jayin, And Parmi Kochang, Yule Shawlu Chinet, Kinu Tong Tong Ke to Warkiyo Topas Lenchek…" Here Ganga Sahay is begging his love not to come with him as in home he has an unkind wife (from Yula village) who may beat her to death, his hope for their love is to survive the distance and remain so forever. Maybe I am like Ganga Sahay whose love for Himalaya is his unbecoming of everything, my city job is the unkind wife but I am still hopeful for my love to last, even If only from a distance. It will still remain forever, One just have to believe, I guess.

References:

1. Google Maps

2. Album: Rocky Mountain High, John Denver, 1972.

3. Wikipedia.

4. Himalayan Dreamland: Journey to Kinnarlok by Kiran Shankar Maitra, googlereads.