A walk through the 'Parliament of Religion', Kolkata

'India has two million gods and worships them all. In religion all other countries are paupers; India is the only millionaire.' - Mark Twain

After my last heritage walk with Dr. Tathagata Neogi in Old Chinatown Kolkata, the very idea such walks became endearing to me. The pandemic is still not over. Hence, organizing such physical walks are at halt. So, I decided to do one by myself. Following the idea proposed by one Anthony Khatchaturian - I zeroed in my first choice as Brabourne Road - The Parliament of Religion Walk, Kolkata. Though, I initially planned about following his list only, the plan modified at runtime, as I found some more places fitting this walk very nearby of Brabourne Road. They day was 17th January 2021, and Arnab was my usual accomplice and free to hire photographer.

EKAM SAT VIPRAH BAHUDHAH VADANTI

Rigveda teaches us ‘Ekam sat viprah bahudhaa vadanti’(एकं सद्विप्रा बहुधा वदन्ति) i.e. wise people explain the same truth in different manners. One of the best place in India to view all such variant manners is Brabourne Road of Kolkata, now renamed renamed as Biplabi Trailokya Maharaj Sarani.

The WALK

A simple bus ride from home landed us on S.N. Banerjee Rod (now defunct 'Lotus Cinema Hall' bus stand). From there onwards, we started walking via Lenin Sarani towards Esplanade Moore and stopped at the below listed points :

A Protestant Methodist Church

• Name - Thoburn Memorial Methodist Church.

• Address - 151, Lenin Sarani, Kolkata - 700013.

• Founded on - 1873.

Established by Revd. Dr. James. M. Thoburn, it is the largest Methodist Church in Kolkata. Thoburn also served as the first Pastor for the church. Initially a small structure, the church was reconstructed during 1875-77 to erect a larger place for worship. It has seating capacity of over 1500. Under the aegis of the Thoburn Memorial Methodist Church are several schools of which only two i.e. Calcutta Girls School High School and Calcutta Boys School are self-dependent.

Methodists are a Protestant Christian denomination. Indian Methodist shares it roots with American Methodism brought by American missionaries (not the same as traditional British Methodism). Methodism came to India in 1856. They call themselves Methodists as they believe in following 'the methodical way in which they carried out their Christian faith'. Their doctrine of practice and belief comes from the life and teachings of John Wesley. The doctrine focuses largely on 'Outward Holiness' - e.g. wear plain dress, condemn 'costly apparel' in general, fast once a week, abstain from alcohol (teetotalism) and gambling, practice spiritual discipline etc.

A Roman Catholic Church

• Name - Sacred Heart Church.

• Address - 3, Lenin Sarani Rd, Esplanade, Kolkata - 700013.

• Founded on - 1832.

It is also known as the Most Sacred Heart of Jesus Church. It was originally a Roman Catholic Church built for the Portuguese community of Kolkata.

The Church have an attached school and a basketball ground. The courtyard hosts two status that of Jesus and Mother of Sorrow (Virgin Mary). Read more...  

A Sunni Mosque

• Name - Tipu Sultan’s Mosque.

• Address - 185 Dharmatala Street.

• Founded on - 1842.

A relic of architectural and cultural heritage named after the ruler of Mysore, built by Prince Ghulam Mohammed, his 11th and youngest son. He built an identical mosque, earlier in 1835 at Tollygunge.

After Tipu's death on the battlefield against the British, his entire family was exiled to Calcutta. Gholam Mohammed was just a child when arrived here. He later became associated with maintenance of roadways and buildings.

It's distinctive architectural heritage comes from being doubled-aisled and having 16 green domes, 4 minarets (tall corner towers) and 12 minor minars. Brick and sand-lime mortar were used for the construction covering an area of 1350 sq. Meters. The composite architectural style mimics that of Junagadh, Gujrat and the exterior walls have some elements of Bengali temples and mosques in Burma (according ASI plaque near entrance).

The masjid works following the principle of Sunni Islam, which believes Muhammad designated his companion and father-in-law Abu Bakr Abdullah ibn Uthman as his successor (the first caliph).The word comes from Sunnah, a record of the teachings and sayings of the prophet Muhammad to guide Sunni people’s actions, and the sect relies on it. Whereas, the Shiites rely on their ayatollahs, whom they see as a sign of God on earth.

A Parsi (Zoroastrian) Fire Temple

• Name - Zoroastrian Anjuman Atash Adaran Fire Temple (Agiary).

• Address - 91, Metcalfe St, Kolkata - 700012 (the Bandook Gali).

• Founded on - 1912.

Anjuman Atash Adran was established by Ervad Dhunjeebhoy Byramjee Mehta.

'Anjuman' means agency or association, 'Atash' means fire and 'Adaran' dictates grade of the fire. Read More... 

A Shia Jamatkhana

• Name - Aga Khan's Palace.

• Address - 66 Metcalfe Street, Calcutta - 700013.

• Founded on - (~1885-1957) ?

On reaching the Parsi Fire temple in Metcalfe Street, I found something unexpected. On the same gully right opposite to the Fire Temple entrance, there was a 'Jamatkhana'. A commemorative stone plaque on the left side of its main entrance states

- 'His Highness Prince, Aga Khan, Shia Imami Ismaili, JamatKhana...'. The building seemed old and the name seemed known somehow. I could not remember right away but, Aga Khan was somehow linked with Indian Independent Movement. As entry was not allowing there (specially in these covid times), I took a picture of the plaque and decided to search about this later.

Jamatkhana is a Persian word, which means 'congregational place'. 'Jama'(Arabic) means gathering and the 'khana'(Persian) means house/place. This amalgamated term is mostly used by Shia/Sufi Muslim communities. This 'Jamatkhana is the Worship Place of Shia Ismaili Muslims. Hence, the confusion about its purpose became clear. 

Who is Aga Khan?

He was The 48th spiritual head (Imam) Of Shia Ismaili Muslims original name - Sir Sultan Mahomed Shah (or, Aga Khan III). Now, Prince Karim Aga Khan (or, Aga Khan IV) is the 49th one. Aga Khan III held the position during 1885–1957 (starting at the age of 7). Hence, it seems to reason that during that period the building may have come up. Other than this I failed to gather any substantial information. 

Another interesting fact is, a building with the same name but much more grandeur can be found in Pune, Maharashtra which served as the 'house arrest home' for Mahatma Gandhi, his wife Kasturba and Sarojini Naidu etc. during Quit India movement (1942), this fixed the 'independence part' of the history puzzle for me.

A Protestant Lutheran Missionary Church

• Name - The Old or Mission Church.

• Address - 5, R.N. Mukherjee Road, Kolkata.

• Founded on - 1770.

It is the oldest Protestant church and overall second oldest church of Calcutta, founded by Swedish Lutheran missionary Johann Zachariah Kiernander.

It is also the second oldest Church (oldest is Armenian Church) of our city. Read More... 

A Protestant Presbyterian Church of Scottish Heritage

• Name - St. Andrew's Church.

• Address - 15, B.B.D. Bag Kolkata-700001.

• Founded on - 1815.

It is also called 'The Scotch Kirk'. It was made for the Scottish community in Calcutta. Rev. Dr. James Bryce was appointed as its first Chaplain.

The Kirk lost its legacy black weather-cock during cyclone Amphan on May 20, 2020. Read More... 

A Mosque for Dawoodi Bohras, Ismaili branch, Shia Islam

• Name - Saifee Masjid.

• Address - 32A, Brabourne Road, Kolkata - 700001

• Founded on - (~1921) ?

Situated diagonally opposite to the famous Maghen David Synagogue, this is relatively newer. It was built by Syedna Taher Saifuddin. Hence, the name maybe. This mosque belongs to the Dawoodi Bohras. They arrived in Kolkata around 1850s from Gujarat. Primarily businessmen in profession, this was their first masjid in Kolkata (according some sources).

Dawoodi Bohras are a religious denomination within the Ismaili branch of Shia Islam. If we dive into their roots, - 'Bohra' is Gujarati for vohrvu/vyavahar, meaning 'to trade'. 'Dawoods' trace their heritage to the Fatimid Caliphate (Fatimah, daughter of prophet Mohammed) is means 'beloved friend'. 'Ismaili’ is a sub-sect for Shia Muslims, created around 8th century on basis of some Shias choosing Isma'il ibn Ja'far as the successor imam to Ja'far al-Sadiq (whereas, others like Akhbaris, Bektashis choose Musa al-Kadhim, his younger brother). At last, Shias are those who believes Prophet Muhammad's true successor (around 632 A.D.) is Ali ibn Abi Talib, his cousin and son-in-law and father of his grand-children. 

The architecture of the mosque is simple, reminiscent of old Egyptian Fatimid dynasty style. It follows the hypostyle plan, a hall having a roof which is supported by many columns.

A Synagogue of the Baghdad-i Jewish community

• Name - Maghen David Synagogue.

• Address - 19, Synagogue Street, China Bazar, Kolkata - 700001.

• Founded on - 1884.

In order of establishment, the third oldest synagogue of Kolkata. Sponsored by Elias David Joseph Ezra in memory of his father David Joseph Ezra of the Ezra Street fame.

The synagogue is built in the Italian Renaissance style with a brick red finish. Read More... 

A Synagogue with a Syrian (Aleppo) connection

• Name - Neveh Shalome Synagogue.

• Address - 9A, Indra Kumar Karnani Street, Kolkata - 700001.

• Founded on - 1831.

In order of establishment, the oldest synagogue of Kolkata. Originally built by Shalom Obadiah ha–Kohen of Aleppo in memory of his father Shalom ha–Cohen.

Despite not being under ASI, the Jewish community restored it with community funds. New Neveh Shalome is also very simple. Read More... 

A Roman Catholic Cathedral

• Name - The Cathedral of The Most Holy Rosary.

• Address - 13-15, Brabourne Road, Portuguese Church Street, Kolkata - 700007.

• Founded on - 1799.

The Cathedral of the Most Holy Rosary – Commonly known as the Portuguese Church or, the Murgihata Church. It was originally a chapel (place for prayer) for Augustinian friars.

The cathedral has a decorated pediment (triangular upper part of the front of a classical building) rendered in vibrant hues. Read More... 

A Hindu Temple

• Name - Shree Baleshwar Mahadev Mandir.

• Address - Portuguese Church Street, Bortola, Kolkata.

• Founded on - ?

A small street side temple in between The Cathedral of the Most Holy Rosary and Jain Swetamber Terapanthi Mahasabha, dedicated to Shiva. Its namesake situated in Champawat, Uttarakhand is one with both historical (10-12th C.E.) and mythical significance. As it is believed that, in this place Mandodari met Ravan.

A Terapanthi Swetambar Jain Establishment

• Name - Jain Swetambar Terapanthi Mahasabha (JSTM).

• Address - 3, Portuguese Church Street, Kolkata - 700001.

• Founded on - 1913.

Situated at the right hand side of main entrance to The Cathedral of the Most Holy Rosary is a three-storey private building called 'Mahasabha Bhavan'. It is a simple building which peaked my interest due to its 'Jain' association, making it another entry in this parliament of religion walk.

Established back on 28 October 1913, it was originally called 'Jain Swetambar Terapanthi Sabha', the 'maha' was added only on 30 January 1947. It is the oldest apex and national institution of Terapanth Religion and Society. 

We only entered for a brief five minutes to enquire about this place from the old gentlemen sitting inside the building premises in plastic chairs. The inside looked more like a school campus. They said it serves as the society's head office, having a discourse room, worship room, auditorium etc.

The Swetambar are a major sect of Jainism  Terapanthi are followers of Acharya Bhikshu (1726–1803). Read More about Jain classifications and other Jain establishments in Kolkata... 

An Oriental Orthodox Church

• Name - Armenian Church of Kolkata.

• Address - 2, Armenian Street, Kolkata - 700001.

• Founded on - 1688.

Originally called the Armenian Church of the Holy Nazareth (childhood home of Jesus), it is the oldest Christian Church in Kolkata. Currently inside a congested lane.

The Armenian Church belongs to the Eastern (Byzantium) Orthodox family of churches, it is also Non-Chalcedonian. Read More... 

A Mosque for Kutchi Memons, Hanafi School, Sunni Islam

• Name - Nakhoda Masjid.

• Address - Rabindra Sarani, Chowringhee North, Kolkata - 700073.

• Founded on - 1926.

The Memons from Kutch (Gujrat), created Nakhoda Masjid. It is Calcutta’s principal mosque with an architecture resembling that of the tomb of Mughal emperor Akbar in Sikandara.

'Nakhoda' means 'captain/mariner'. The outside architecture is decorated with 3 domes, 2 long minarets (~151 ft.) and 25 smaller minarets (100-117 ft.). Read More... 

Another Synagogue

• Name - Beth-El Synagogue.

• Address - 26, Pollock Street, Kolkata - 700001.

• Founded on - 1856.

In order of establishment, the second oldest synagogue of Kolkata. Beth-El means 'House of God'. Originally built by David Joseph Ezra and Ezekiel Judah and later was modified and expanded by Elias Shalome Gubbay.

Under the protection of ASI, The exterior of this building has Italian and Byzantine influences. Read More... 

And the last one for today,

A Sthanakwasi Swetambar Jain Establishment

• Name - Shree Calcutta Jain Swetambar Sthanakwasi (Gujarati) Sangh(SCJSSS).

• Address - 27, Pollock Street, Kolkata - 700001.

• Founded on - 1928.

On our way towards the Beth-El synagogue while walking on Pollock street, I witnessed a sudden change in the scenery. Roadside sweet shops have title hoardings written in a language resembling Hindi but, not quite so. This mystery was solved right before we reached Beth El, some 100 meters far from the synagogue on the opposite side of the road we found a Jain establishment for people from Gujrat, Gujrati resembles Hindi.

It was established by a small collective of Jain traders as a social service institution. 

On the left hand side on the entrance I saw the term ‘Upashray’ written in Gujrati, it being very close to Hindi I was able to read it. Being a Upashray means it also serves as a place where the Jain Sadhus stay in separate rooms and perform worship. It seems sometime in past this place started acting like both a social and spiritual guidance center for the Kolkata residing Gujrati Sthanakwasi Jain families.

The Swetambar are a major sect of Jainism  Sthanakwasi are followers of a merchant named Lavaji (1653). Read More about Jain classifications and other Jain establishments in Kolkata... 

We planned for visiting 12 places only, ended up finding 5 more. This added some new dimensions to the term 'Parliament of Religion. In the post CAA-CAB era India has lost some of its shine of usual endeavoring plurality. Hence it becomes abundantly important for us to go back to our roots once again to remember from where we come from. The fact is our nationalism was envisioned to be composite, an idea stating "nationalism cannot be defined by religion in India", this walk for me served as a reminder for the same.

References:

1. Google Maps, Wikipedia.

2. Newspaper clippings, personal experience.

3. 10 Walks in Calcutta by Prosenjit Das Gupta.

4. Swasato Kolkata – Ingrej Amoler Stapotha by Nishitranjan Roy.

5. Hooghly Tales – Sally Solomon.

6. Thacker’s India Directory 1935.